On the Front Restaurant & Lounge in Sarnia
Some people seem to have been born with a gene that destines them for the hospitality business. Whether they work in a hostelry, in a kitchen, as a server, behind a bar, or in a manager’s office; whether they consciously chose their path, or simply found themselves upon it and unwilling to turn at a cross-road, these people often experience (in spite of the inherent hurdles and hardships) a sense of fulfillment in their fields, and a passion for their careers, that eludes many of us.
Others, however, have the hospitality business thrust upon them. Such was the case for Deborah (Debbie) Renaud-McDermott of Sarnia, and her husband Les McDermott. Eleven years ago they took a step into unfamiliar waters. The couple, both from business backgrounds, but inexperienced in the particular and often peculiar restaurant business, became silent partners in a new venture: On the Front Restaurant and Lounge, on Front Street in Sarnia.
A few years after the former office space had been repurposed, and the restaurant was up and running, the other two members of the group (who did have restaurant experience) opted to leave the association. Debbie realized that she and her husband had “two choices – we lose our investment, or we forge ahead.”
On the Front is situated on the top floor of a building (now called First Sarnia Place) which once housed the offices of a chemical corporation. After exiting the elevator at the 14th floor, one ascends a curved and cantilevered wooden staircase to the restaurant. There is no wheelchair access at present.
The reception area is not brightly lit, but this is made up for as you are led into the restaurant proper. Banks of plate glass, wall-to-wall on two sides of the large room, provide a bright and airy ambience. When you step up to the windows you are rewarded with stunning views of the vibrantly coloured waters of the St. Clair River, the Blue Water Bridge, the cityscape on the American shore, and the busy flow of life on a river that serves both commercial and recreational traffic. A patio allows patrons to enjoy this all al fresco, weather permitting.
The floor has been separated into utilitarian areas. Central is the lounge, furnished with small café-type tables and banquettes. Patrons can also choose to dine here. Left of the lounge, behind a curved wall, is the former corporate boardroom, now used for private events, business meetings, or for dining room overflow on busy nights. This room also enjoys large windows and attractive views. Tables can be variously arranged to accommodate up to forty people. “ We say our part-time job is furniture moving,” laughs Debbie.
Continuing through the lounge you enter the carpeted dining room. Seating is a mixture of booths and tables. Whichever you choose, you will have a view into the open kitchen. If that doesn’t hold your attention, and you can wrest your eyes from the window view, you can admire the art displayed throughout the restaurant and lounge. Currently installed are a number of lively acrylic paintings by local artist Judy Brady.
Few will find offence in the menu offerings at On the Front. Starters include Caesar salad, baby spinach salad, and (“‘by far the most favourite appetizer”) bacon-wrapped scallops.
Main courses include rack of lamb (Australian, and available as a full or half rack), Chicken Supreme, bouillabaise (ingredients sourced from Purdy’s, a local and well-known purveyor of fish and seafood), and a ‘pan seared organic [read farmed] Norwegian salmon’.
Beef gets its own menu page, which notes that all steaks are ‘certified Sterling Silver beef’. While Angus beef, for example, denotes a breed, Sterling Silver is a brand. Owned by Cargill, Incorporated, the brand is based in Wichita, Kansas, and prides itself on the management practices and processes that they use. Among these practices is the use of x-rays on some cuts, to determine amounts of marbling and fat.
The beef menu contains a handy guide to grilling standards, which provides the definitions of ‘Well Done’, and ‘Rare’, for example.
Jeff Crump, chef at Ancaster’s Old Mill (and author of the recently published ‘Earth to Table’) admits that ‘eating local is a massive trend at the moment’, but notes that it’s hardly a new behaviour in human history, and that besides being ‘produced fairly and sustainably [local food is] delicious.’ Trying to serve the best to their customers presents difficulties, though, to many chefs. They lament limited supplies and sources, and the unavoidable shortages of certain items outside of their growing season, or availability of others within the region. There is another consideration, voiced by Deborah Renaud-McDermott: “we have to consider price, what people are willing to spend. We also have to cover our costs…I’d love to be able to do it [but it is] more expensive, unfortunately.”
The inclusion of Maytag blue cheese in the spinach salad will give the culturally erudite a clue as to the importance of using locally sourced foods in this kitchen. (Don’t feel bad: I had to go to Wikipedia, which informed me that “Maytag is a blue cheese produced on the Maytag Dairy Farms outside of Newton, Iowa (the home of the Maytag Corporation). In 1938, Iowa State University developed a new process for making blue cheese from homogenized milk (instead of traditional sheep’s milk).” Maytag Dairy Farms’ website further advises that this cheese is produced by “a time-consuming method of hand making cheese in small batches, using fresh sweet milk from Iowa dairy farms.”).
Chef is responsible for setting the menu, which is then vetted by Debbie with an eye to cost considerations. Regrettably, I did not have an opportunity to speak with On the Front’s current chef, to discover his food philosophy, or to ask any other questions pertaining to the menu.
The wine list is neither over-long nor over-ambitious. It was “initially started by someone from the LCBO,” says Debbie. “We’ve made minor changes.” The list consists of a number of familiar names, many European and North American, and changes from time to time based on availability, and on recommendations that Deborah receives.
Of working in the restaurant business, says Debbie, “It’s interesting, it’s fun, it’s definitely hard work. You can say good-bye to a social life.” Acknowledging that service is a vital part of running a restaurant, she credits her staff: “One of the things I’m very proud of is the staff in the front of house, very loyal and hard-working.” Other facets of her job also provide satisfaction. On the Front sponsored the Starbright Summer Festival this past summer. “It was a pleasure to do,” she enthuses, adding that it was also “ a good thing” for the business.
Deborah Renaud-McDermott is living proof that you don’t need that mysterious hospitality gene to keep a restaurant running. You need determination, a solid understanding of the business, an eye on the bottom line, and the will to make it all work. And it helps to have a room with a view.
On the Front Restaurant & Lounge
201 Front Street North
Sarnia, ON
N7T 7T9
519 332-4455