Interpreting the Art and Business of the Restaurant
at Pazzo, in Stratford.
First off, to explain that title: Pazzo translates from the Italian most often as crazy, but connotes as well many of the synonyms we use in English, terms that range from derogative to amusing.
Owners Jeff Leney and Larry McCabe accepted the suggestion from one of their original partners in the business, and as McCabe remarks, “anybody who’s ever started a restaurant would think it’s appropriate…you have to be crazy to do it.”
But this establishment was developed on some very solid and sane foundations.
The two were partners from the beginning, and both brought related experience to their enterprise. “Jeff and I were always involved with restaurants…Jeff did quite a bit more on the kitchen end of things, I was always front of house.” says McCabe. When the opportunity arose to take over the basement area of the building, “we had a plan for a pizzeria. We did a lot of research. We did a very comprehensive business plan.”
Even metaphor lends itself to the conceit of a solid foundation: one of the basement walls is an artifact from Stratford’s history. The exposed stones belonged to one of the town’s earliest buildings, and the wall remains as an integral, and necessary, part of the existing structure.
It was eleven years ago that the partners opened Pazzo Pizzeria, below-stairs from an existing restaurant that was under different ownership. About a year later, when the upstairs space became available, Leney and McCabe moved in, and presented Pazzo Ristorante.
The pizzeria and the restaurant present very different faces, but share some complementary aspects.
Both up and down have dedicated kitchens, each with its own head chef. There is a degree of travel between the kitchens that allows the staff to expand their skills and experience. (Each of the kitchen staff is either a graduate of or enrolled in the Chef School). Both kitchens offer menus that Larry McCabe describes as “modern Italian, heavily focused on really good ingredients. We have long term relationships with local people who provide seasonal ingredients.”
Chef Greg Kuepfer, who presides over the Pizzeria kitchen, began his culinary career in his home town of Stratford, and after chef school spent time at the Hillebrand Winery Restaurant, to complete his training. Hillebrand emphasizes both local terroir and foods in its restaurant, and Keupfer’s training harmonizes with the Pazzo credo.
Don’t be misled by the name ‘pizzeria’. From the terra cotta coloured open kitchen issue a variety of dishes, from primi through pasti to secondi, and, of course, pizza. The menu mentions ‘simple Italian food’, but there’s more than a hint of sophistication in many of the items, such as this appetizer: “Arugula and shaved white mushroom salad with lemon, olive oil and parmesan”, or the Italian Stallion pizza – prosciutto, italian sausage, italian bacon, spicy calabrese, bocconcini, roasted garlic and fresh herbs.
The Pizzeria provides two main rooms. The first, which you enter from the stairway, has a welcoming bar, and booths with warm red wood tabletops. Because the building is on a grade, there is also an attractive view from the windows on one side. The second room is the one which offers the lively show from the open kitchen.
Stratford Pilsner is featured in the Pizzeria, but of course wines are also available, from Pazzo’s extensive and well-considered list.
‘The Pizzeria has a large local following,” says McCabe. “It’s more consistent, and it’s busier, especially in the wintertime when we’re closed up[stairs].’
The downstairs area boasts a special little component. The wine cellar can seat up to seven for private dining. Seated at a round table, surrounded by beautiful wines, with floor-to-ceiling glass wall and doors , you are separated from the hustle and bustle, but not from the atmosphere of the lively bar and general dining area. And you enjoy the same friendly and professional service that is a hallmark of Pazzo.
Upstairs, in the restaurant, the atmosphere is distinctly less casual and more upscale. The décor and design were created by Ron Nuhn (the interior designer who has been responsible for the styling of some other Stratford restaurants, as well as Toronto’s Cowbell, and Globe Bistro). The overall look is lots of white and silver, but this is a warm and classic elegance, and the chromatics are alleviated by the bank of large windows on the west side of the room, and by the brown and gold wall covering on the east.
This kitchen is the purview of Sean Collins. He, too, embraces the Pazzo philosophy of using interesting and good quality ingredients, and sourcing locally wherever and whenever possible. (Like many other chefs, Collins acknowledges the challenges of sharing a small number of suppliers among a large number of local area restaurants).
Larry McCabe summarizes the restaurant menu thus: “ We try to mix it between standard dishes (there is a chicken and a beef on the menu), and things that highlight flavour profiles that are not generally seen”. An example of this would be Braised rabbit with lentils, baby carrots and caramelized onion broth. Rabbit seems to be appearing more frequently on menus in our region. (The appetizer menu offers Rabbit terrine with local greens and plum chutney ). Pazzo sources their rabbits from a farm in Arthur. Another item on the recently introduced Fall menu is slow-cooked veal cheeks with sautéed mushrooms, parsnips and Israeli couscous. This is proving to be extremely popular with patrons.
Larry McCabe is justifiably proud of the wine list, which is substantial and wide ranging, with offerings from around the globe. The emphasis, though, is on France, Italy, California, and of course, Ontario. (There are currently about 30 Ontario wines available at Pazzo). This season Pazzo has featured a number of 2007 Ontario whites, among them the Cave Spring Chardonnay Musqué (intense spice and orange flavours) and their Riesling Dolomite (available only direct-to-restaurant). McCabe is looking forward to receiving some very good Ontario 2007 reds, for next season, particularly some from Le Clos Jordanne, whose Pinot Noir has been getting excellent advance billing.
A number of wines are available by the glass. Changes to the list are frequent, depending on vintage changes, and new discoveries. A downloadable listing can be found on the website, should you wish to indulge in some pleasurable anticipation.
Service, that most fundamental of elements, is taken very seriously at Pazzo. Ignorance of details of the food and wine, on the part of wait staff, does not translate into bliss for the dining patrons. McCabe emphasizes that the floor staff are well-prepared for their work. “[We do] extensive wine training, we do seminars, 4 or 5 during the year.” Staff also have the opportunity to visit Ontario wineries, to acquire a more immediate and in-depth education. And the staff are also thoroughly trained on the food: “They have the opportunity to see everything that is coming out [of the kitchen], to critique it…to learn the ingredients of every dish”.
Pazzo’s patio will be open as long as the weather is accommodating, but the Ristorante will be closing at the end of October. Try to visit before the closing, to appreciate the experience offered by a cast and crew that are truly professionals in their fields. If you’re too late for the dining room, enjoy the same standards, with a different atmosphere, in the Pizzeria. There’s nothing crazy about having a good time!
70 Ontario Street
Stratford, Ontario. N5A 3H2
Phone: 519-273-6666 or 1-877-440-9666
Fax: 519-273-6554