He has translated thought into action, and his enterprise offers Londoners the opportunity to put their own beliefs into practice.

On any Saturday morning at the Western Fair Farmers Market, Jeff can be found at On the Move Organics, where a growing number of customers have discovered they can find quality local produce and products that are produced sustainably and delivered with a low carbon footprint. You might find yourself being served by Jeff’s sister, Jennifer. She and their mother, Jeannette Pastorius, support Jeff in the business.

Photo: Kelly Hunt

On the Move Organics began as a delivery service, bringing food boxes to the front door. Taking a stall at the market has made the food accessible to a much wider population, as has his presence at the Masonville farmers market (Fridays from May to October). But delivery service continues in Woodfield and Old East, with plans for expansion this year to Old North and more. When weather permits, deliveries are made by custom-built bicycle trailers – the ultimate in healthy, sustainable living, for both business and customer!

It all comes back to philosophy, and practicing what you believe in. “In London… we don’t have the capacity to take all the food that’s being grown around here and bring it into the city.” Instead, we buy food that is distributed by large businesses, and sold through “big box” stores. Those locally grown apples have often traveled from here to Toronto and back. “Our food infrastructure… is almost nonexistent,” he declares. With regret, Jeff remarks on the great quantities of quality food that originate in this region, but that end up on distant tables. “I see a large need to organize and distribute local, organic [food].”

As part of the business plan, On the Move Organics now has a retail space and warehousing facilities in south London. Jeff is now able to serve customers with a storefront that offers everything available at the markets, as well as a number of items that he is unable to stock in the smaller space of a market stall. The premises were formerly home to The Fire Roasted Coffee Company. When Dave Cook moved his roastery to the Western Fair Farmers Market, Jeff was able to take advantage of much-needed space. Dave wanted to be sure that his customers in the area continued to enjoy the service on which he built his business, so his fresh-roasted, Fair Trade Certified coffees are still available at this location.

As Jeff’s business grows, so does community participation in a movement that only a few years ago was unknown to many. “Fresh,” “local,” “organic,” “sustainable” and “seasonal” are now part of the common lexicon. More and more of us, culturally and economically diverse, are changing the ways in which we consider the food in our lives, from shopping to cooking to consumption.

And there’s more to it, suggests Jeff. “There is an argument to be made that it’s more social; it actually increases the quality of life.” At a large supermarket, “you are just making purchases.” But when shopping locally, whether at a small shop, at a market, or at the farm gate, “you’re engaging…with your social environment.” Six degrees of separation are reduced to one. You have conversations with neighbours, make new acquaintances, enjoy new experiences. It’s not just food that keeps us healthy.

Jeff doesn’t do sound bytes. But here’s a good phrase: “This is about farms, this is about politics, this is about community as much as it is about business and making a living. These are all very important factors, and they all interact with each other.”

Food for thought, indeed.

On the Move Organics
3392 Wonderland Road (between Southdale and Wharncliffe)
Building 7, Unit 6
519-719-7675
onthemoveorganics@gmail.com
http://onthemoveorganics.ca/index.html

Store Hours:
Monday, Tuesday, Friday: 10 – 6
Wednesday, Thursday: 10 – 4

Western Fair Farmers Market: Saturday: 7 – 3
Masonville Farmers Market: Friday, May to October

The roots of this event go back to 1929, when historian Carter G. Woodson established Negro History Week. Initiatives by the Canadian Negro Women’s Association in the 1950’s, and later by the Ontario Black History Society, among others, have led to BHM being celebrated across the country each February.

The ongoing efforts of numerous Londoners contribute to the success of our local celebrations. Many are unsung members of diverse groups across the city. Michelle Edwards is to be credited with bringing together the many groups and volunteers, as well as supporting partners that include the City of London, the London Public Library, the University of Western Ontario, Museum London, and the Cross Cultural Learner Centre.

Speaking on behalf of the London Black History Coordinating Committee, Christina Lord explains that exposure to and involvement in BHM events is empowering for Black youth, in that it highlights positive aspects of the Black experience, acquaints them with strong role models, and strengthens their connection to the community. As well, Londoners of all ages and cultures can enjoy experiences that are both educational and engaging.

This year’s theme is “Celebrating the Family”, and opportunities abound to learn about the community’s diverse histories, cultures, and personalities. The opening celebration will be held January 30, from 2-5 p.m. at Museum London. A new exhibit offers portrayals of local Black communities, and arts, crafts and music will be presented in the Community Gallery. Admission is free.

At the London Regional Children’s Museum the focus is on family. Visitors will enjoy games, stories, music, and hands-on activities, as well as the opportunity to sample African and Caribbean foods.

The Closing Gala is always a lively and well-attended affair. Held at the Wolf Performance Hall, this year’s gala will be take place on Thursday, February 25th. Featured performers include Denise Pelley, Marque Smith and Janis Mark, electric Soul, Saidat, Rwandan Dancers, and Steel Drums. The Gala is also the occasion for the presentation of awards to two outstanding Black Community Achievers.

Between the opening and closing celebrations are many other activities, events and performances. For details of events, please refer to the links below.

Embrace this opportunity to participate in 2010’s Black History Month. All Londoners are welcome.

Photo: Members of the Rwandan Dance Troupe, based in London.
They performed at the closing gala for Black History Month 2009 at Wolf Hall, Central Library. (Zivai Muvuti/Insider)

The London Cross Cultural Learner Centre
Marilyn Cook: 519-432-1133 ext. 240
http://www.lcclc.org/bhm_background.html

Museum London
519-661-0333
http://www.museumlondon.ca/

London Children’s Museum
21 Wharncliffe Road South
http://www.londonchildrensmuseum.ca/
Christina Lord: 519-850-9997 or
Dhira: 519-434-5726

Wolf Performance Hall, London Public Library
251 Dundas Street
1-800-265-1593
http://www.londonpubliclibrary.ca/

Congress of Black Women of Canada, London Ontario Chapter
www.cbwlondon.org

Ontario Black History Society
http://www.blackhistorysociety.ca

A living, breathing Guitar Hero came to town on Sunday night. For legendary blues guitarist Duke Robillard, the show at London’s Music Hall was just one stop on a long list of tour dates. But his professionalism, and genuine love of sharing the music, made you believe that he and the band had trekked up from Rhode Island just to show Londoners a good time.

Sunday night’s show opened with a set by some of London’s own Blues Masters: Tim Woodcock, Rick Taylor and Sam Hurrie. The room didn’t really need warming up, but if it had these were the players to do it. With more than a few decades of experience between them, they worked through an eclectic set of blues tunes with skill and personality.

The headliner, four-time winner of the W.C. Handy Award (now known as the Blues Music Awards), and numerous other accolades, Robillard’s style embraces jazz, blues and swing. A lot of people would describe him as a unique musician, a one-off. In a self-deprecating tone, though, he says, “I don’t claim to do anything original. What I have that’s original is [the] way that I put together what I’ve learned from other people. That’s what traditional music is about. Pick it up and make it your own. Which is what my job on earth is to do. I work very hard at it, and I believe in it. Really that’s it, that’s what I’m all about.”

I first saw Duke Robillard in the ‘70’s, when he played with Roomful of Blues, and later when he performed with The Fabulous Thunderbirds (replacing guitarist Jimmie Vaughn). Since those days he’s been on stage, or in the studio, with musicians as various as Bob Dylan, Tom Waits, Jay McShann, John Hammond, Jimmy Witherspoon, Dr. John and Maria Muldaur.

As he has during all those years, in performance with musicians of so many stripes, Duke brings out the best in an audience. And it’s the audience, not the awards, that he plays for – heart and soul. “I love playing in Canada because the audiences seem to be genuinely into the music, and I’ve been into playing genuine since the seventies… The audiences are great and really respond to the music. And that’s what it’s all about.”

This tour is in part to promote Duke Robillard’s latest disc, Stomp! The Blues Tonight. The audience was treated to some of those early R&B tunes, but, effortlessly versatile, Robillard and his band segued through a variety of melodies. One was a moving homage to Les Paul and Mary Ford, from the soon-to-be released Tales from the Tiki Lounge. (This disc, the first on Robillard’s own Blue Duchess label, is a collaboration with vocalist Sunny Crownover, and was conceived as a tribute to Paul and Ford). That’s the Reason I love You is “a tune from the ‘50’s. I learned it from Les Paul but I play it my own way.” Later, Just Because got the audience sitting up and tapping their toes, with it’s inspired Latin-flavoured intro and ending that showed off drummer Mark Teixeira’s chops. “It’s one of my favourite tunes,” declared Duke. “There was nothing on any [earlier] recording that was Latin, but I thought it was the perfect tune to set up.” On all the pieces Bruce Bears’ keyboard playing was energetic and inspired. Doug “Mr. Low” James has been contributing his tenor and baritone sax stylings to Duke’s music for years, providing a strong anchor whatever the genre and pace. The newest band member, bassist Brad Hallen, is “perfect for this band. He brings in something that I’m happy for” Duke enthuses. Playing both electric and upright, Hallen adds some funk to the group. “Oh, I love it! If it’s the right style, the old style.”

Robillard’s not slowing down anytime soon. “I figure I’m getting old…older! And I have a lot to say. I gotta say it before I check out. I’m really on a mission to do everything I ever wanted to do and get it on record before I leave this earth. Not that I’m planning on checking out anytime soon, but [I have to do it] while my hands still work.” This is a reference to the arthritis that has started to affect Robillard in the past few years, along with bursitis, which is showing up in his left shoulder. “I fight against it,” he admits. “There’s certainly things I used to do that I can’t do anymore.”

While the physical travails of age are moving in, Robillard finds that there are compensations. “I think I’m much more musical…I know so much more as a musician, there’s so much more in the music that I value, than the chops. Everybody in the world goes deeper. It’s typical of any musician… I feel so much deeper than I was when I had all my chops totally together.”

Besides touring, which usually involves upwards of a hundred gigs a year, Robillard spends lots of time in the studio recording, producing and arranging his own music, as well as working with other musicians. Where does the energy come from? “What I believe in gives me my strength. And what I’ve accomplished with other artists that have been my idols, who have believed in me…gives me my strength. The feeling that I know what I want, and that I know what I want is good, that’s what my strength is.”

The evening ended too soon. Responding, as always, to an appreciative and enthusiastic audience the band went overtime, and came back for an encore, before packing up and heading home to Rhode Island. “I did my job if I made people see and feel the music.. and I feel very satisfied about this gig.” So do we, Mr. Robillard, so do we.

If you missed this show, don’t make the same mistake next time Duke Robillard’s in town, sharing the music, and the good times.

On the Front Restaurant & Lounge in Sarnia

Some people seem to have been born with a gene that destines them for the hospitality business. Whether they work in a hostelry, in a kitchen, as a server, behind a bar, or in a manager’s office; whether they consciously chose their path, or simply found themselves upon it and unwilling to turn at a cross-road, these people often experience (in spite of the inherent hurdles and hardships) a sense of fulfillment in their fields, and a passion for their careers, that eludes many of us.

Others, however, have the hospitality business thrust upon them. Such was the case for Deborah (Debbie) Renaud-McDermott of Sarnia, and her husband Les McDermott. Eleven years ago they took a step into unfamiliar waters. The couple, both from business backgrounds, but inexperienced in the particular and often peculiar restaurant business, became silent partners in a new venture: On the Front Restaurant and Lounge, on Front Street in Sarnia.

A few years after the former office space had been repurposed, and the restaurant was up and running, the other two members of the group (who did have restaurant experience) opted to leave the association. Debbie realized that she and her husband had “two choices – we lose our investment, or we forge ahead.”

On the Front is situated on the top floor of a building (now called First Sarnia Place) which once housed the offices of a chemical corporation. After exiting the elevator at the 14^th floor, one ascends a curved and cantilevered wooden staircase to the restaurant. There is no wheelchair access at present.

The reception area is not brightly lit, but this is made up for as you are led into the restaurant proper. Banks of plate glass, wall-to-wall on two sides of the large room, provide a bright and airy ambience. When you step up to the windows you are rewarded with stunning views of the vibrantly coloured waters of the  St. Clair River, the Blue Water Bridge, the cityscape on the American shore, and the busy flow of life on a river that serves both commercial and recreational traffic. A patio allows patrons to enjoy this all al fresco, weather permitting.

The floor has been separated into utilitarian areas. Central is the lounge, furnished with small café-type tables and banquettes. Patrons can also choose to dine here. Left of the lounge, behind a curved wall, is the former corporate boardroom, now used for private events, business meetings, or for dining room overflow on busy nights. This room also enjoys large windows and attractive views.  Tables can be variously arranged to accommodate up to forty people. “ We say our part-time job is furniture moving,” laughs Debbie.

Continuing through the lounge you enter the carpeted dining room. Seating is a mixture of booths and tables. Whichever you choose, you will have a view into the open kitchen. If that doesn’t hold your attention, and you can wrest your eyes from the window view, you can admire the art displayed throughout the restaurant and lounge. Currently installed are a number of lively acrylic paintings by local artist Judy Brady.

Few will find offence in the menu offerings at On the Front. Starters include Caesar salad, baby spinach salad, and (“‘by far the most favourite appetizer”) bacon-wrapped scallops.

Main courses include rack of lamb (Australian, and available as a full or half rack), Chicken Supreme, bouillabaise (ingredients sourced from Purdy’s, a local and well-known purveyor of fish and seafood), and a ‘pan seared organic [read farmed] Norwegian salmon’.

Beef gets its own menu  page, which notes that all steaks are ‘certified Sterling Silver beef’. While Angus beef, for example, denotes a breed, Sterling Silver is a brand. Owned by Cargill, Incorporated, the brand is based in Wichita, Kansas, and prides itself on the management practices and processes that they use. Among these practices is the use of x-rays on some cuts, to determine amounts of marbling and fat.

The beef menu contains a handy guide to grilling standards, which provides the definitions of ‘Well Done’, and ‘Rare’, for example.

Jeff Crump, chef at Ancaster’s Old Mill (and author of the recently published ‘Earth to Table’) admits that ‘eating local is a massive trend at the moment’, but notes that it’s hardly a new behaviour in human history, and that besides being ‘produced fairly and sustainably [local food is] delicious.’ Trying to serve the best to their customers presents difficulties, though, to many chefs. They lament limited supplies and sources, and the unavoidable shortages of certain items outside of their growing season, or availability of others within the region. There is another consideration, voiced by Deborah Renaud-McDermott: “we have to consider price, what people are willing to spend. We also have to cover our costs…I’d love to be able to do it [but it is] more expensive, unfortunately.”

The inclusion of Maytag blue cheese in the spinach salad will give the culturally erudite a clue as to the importance of using locally sourced foods in this kitchen. (Don’t feel bad: I had to go to Wikipedia, which informed me that “Maytag is a blue cheese produced on the Maytag Dairy Farms outside of Newton, Iowa (the home of the Maytag Corporation). In 1938, Iowa State University developed a new process for making blue cheese from homogenized milk (instead of traditional sheep’s milk).” Maytag Dairy Farms’ website further advises that this cheese is produced by “a time-consuming method of hand making cheese in small batches, using fresh sweet milk from Iowa dairy farms.”).

Chef is responsible for setting the menu, which is then vetted by Debbie with an eye to cost considerations. Regrettably, I did not have an opportunity to speak with On the Front’s  current chef, to discover his food philosophy, or to ask any other questions pertaining to the menu.

The wine list is neither over-long nor over-ambitious. It was “initially started by someone from the LCBO,” says Debbie. “We’ve made minor changes.” The list consists of a number of familiar names, many European and North American, and changes from time to time based on availability, and on recommendations that Deborah receives.

Of working in the restaurant business, says Debbie, “It’s interesting, it’s fun, it’s definitely hard work. You can say good-bye to a social life.”  Acknowledging that service is a vital part of running a restaurant, she credits her staff: “One of the things I’m very proud of is the staff in the front of house, very loyal and hard-working.” Other facets of her job also provide satisfaction. On the Front sponsored the Starbright Summer Festival this past summer. “It was a pleasure to do,” she enthuses, adding that it was also “ a good thing”  for the business.

Deborah Renaud-McDermott is living proof that you don’t need that mysterious hospitality gene to keep a restaurant running. You need determination, a solid understanding of the business, an eye on the bottom line, and the will to make it all work.  And it helps to have a room with a view.

On the Front Restaurant & Lounge

201 Front Street North

Sarnia, ON

N7T 7T9

519 332-4455

http://www.onthefront.com/

Interpreting the Art and Business of the Restaurant

at Pazzo, in Stratford.

First off, to explain that title: Pazzo translates from the Italian most often as  crazy, but connotes as well many of the synonyms we use in English, terms that range from derogative to amusing.

Owners Jeff Leney and Larry McCabe accepted the suggestion from one of their original partners in the business, and as McCabe remarks, “anybody who’s ever started a restaurant would think it’s appropriate…you have to be crazy to do it.”

But this establishment was developed on some very solid and sane foundations.

The two were partners from the beginning, and both brought related experience to their enterprise. “Jeff and I were always involved with restaurants…Jeff did quite a bit more on the kitchen end of things, I was always front of house.” says McCabe.  When the opportunity arose to take over the basement area of the building, “we had a plan for a pizzeria. We did a lot of research. We did a very comprehensive business plan.”

Even metaphor lends itself to the conceit of a solid foundation: one of the basement walls is  an artifact from Stratford’s history. The exposed stones belonged to one of the town’s earliest buildings, and the wall remains as an integral, and necessary, part of the existing structure.

It was eleven years ago that the partners opened Pazzo Pizzeria, below-stairs from an existing restaurant that was under different ownership. About a year later, when the upstairs space became available, Leney and McCabe moved in, and presented Pazzo Ristorante.

The pizzeria and the restaurant present very different faces, but share some complementary aspects.

Both up and down have dedicated kitchens, each with its own head chef. There is a degree of travel between the kitchens that allows the staff to expand their skills and experience. (Each of the kitchen staff is either a graduate of or enrolled in the Chef School). Both kitchens offer menus that Larry McCabe describes as “modern Italian, heavily focused on really good ingredients. We have long term relationships with local people who provide seasonal ingredients.”

Chef Greg Kuepfer, who presides over the Pizzeria kitchen, began his culinary career in his home town of Stratford, and after chef school spent time at the Hillebrand Winery Restaurant, to complete his training. Hillebrand emphasizes both local terroir and foods in its restaurant, and Keupfer’s training harmonizes with the Pazzo credo.

Don’t be misled by the name ‘pizzeria’.  From the  terra cotta coloured open kitchen issue a variety of dishes, from primi through pasti to secondi, and, of course, pizza. The menu mentions ‘simple Italian food’, but there’s more than a hint of sophistication in many of the items, such as this appetizer: “Arugula and shaved white mushroom salad with lemon, olive oil and parmesan”, or the Italian Stallion pizza – prosciutto, italian sausage, italian bacon, spicy calabrese, bocconcini, roasted garlic and fresh herbs.

The Pizzeria provides two main rooms. The first, which you enter from the stairway, has a welcoming bar, and booths with warm red wood tabletops. Because the building is on a grade, there is also an attractive view from the windows on one side. The second room is the one which offers the lively show from the open kitchen.

Stratford Pilsner is featured in the Pizzeria, but of course wines are also available, from Pazzo’s extensive and well-considered list.

‘The Pizzeria has a large local following,” says McCabe. “It’s more consistent, and it’s busier, especially in the wintertime when we’re closed up[stairs].’

The downstairs area boasts a special little component. The wine cellar can seat up to seven for private dining. Seated at a round table, surrounded by beautiful wines, with floor-to-ceiling glass wall and doors , you are separated from the hustle and bustle, but not from the atmosphere of the lively bar and general dining area. And you enjoy the same friendly and professional service that is a hallmark of Pazzo.

Upstairs, in the restaurant, the atmosphere is distinctly less casual and more upscale. The décor and design were created by Ron Nuhn (the interior designer who has been responsible for the styling of some other Stratford restaurants, as well as Toronto’s Cowbell, and Globe Bistro). The overall look is lots of white and silver, but this is a warm and classic elegance, and the chromatics are alleviated by the bank of large windows on the west side of the room, and by the brown and gold wall covering on the east.

This kitchen is the purview of Sean Collins. He, too, embraces the Pazzo philosophy of using interesting and good quality ingredients, and sourcing locally wherever and whenever possible. (Like many other chefs, Collins acknowledges the challenges of sharing a small number of suppliers among a large number of local area restaurants).

Larry McCabe summarizes the restaurant menu thus: “ We try to mix it between standard dishes  (there is a chicken and a beef on the menu), and things that highlight flavour profiles that are not generally seen”. An example of this would be Braised rabbit with lentils, baby carrots and caramelized onion broth. Rabbit seems to be appearing more frequently on menus in our region. (The appetizer menu offers Rabbit terrine with local greens and plum chutney ). Pazzo sources their rabbits from a farm in Arthur. Another item on the recently introduced Fall menu is slow-cooked veal cheeks with sautéed mushrooms, parsnips and Israeli couscous. This is proving to be extremely popular with patrons.

Larry McCabe is justifiably proud of the wine list, which is substantial and wide ranging, with offerings from around the globe. The emphasis, though, is on France, Italy, California, and of course, Ontario. (There are currently about 30 Ontario wines available at Pazzo). This season Pazzo has featured a number of 2007 Ontario whites, among them the Cave Spring Chardonnay Musqué (intense spice and orange flavours) and their Riesling Dolomite (available only direct-to-restaurant). McCabe is looking forward to receiving some very good Ontario 2007 reds, for next season, particularly some from Le Clos Jordanne, whose Pinot Noir has been getting excellent advance billing.

A number of wines are available by the glass. Changes to the list are frequent, depending on vintage changes, and new discoveries. A downloadable listing can be found on the website, should you wish to indulge in some pleasurable anticipation.

Service, that most fundamental of elements, is taken very seriously at Pazzo. Ignorance of details of the food and wine, on the part of wait staff, does not translate into bliss for the dining patrons. McCabe emphasizes that the floor staff are well-prepared for their work. “[We do] extensive wine training, we do seminars, 4 or 5 during the year.”  Staff also have the opportunity to visit Ontario wineries, to acquire a more immediate and in-depth education.  And the staff are also thoroughly trained on the food:  “They have the opportunity to see everything that is coming out [of the kitchen],  to critique it…to learn the ingredients of every dish”.

Pazzo’s patio will be open as long as the weather is accommodating, but the Ristorante will be closing at the end of October. Try to visit before the closing, to appreciate the experience offered by a cast and crew that are truly professionals in their fields. If you’re too late for the dining room, enjoy the same standards, with a different atmosphere, in the Pizzeria.  There’s nothing crazy about having a good time!

70 Ontario Street

Stratford, Ontario. N5A 3H2

Phone: 519-273-6666 or 1-877-440-9666

Fax: 519-273-6554

http://www.pazzo.ca

Tania Auger’s Lola’s Lounge in Sarnia

Bryan Lavery & Cecilia Buy

Drive down Christina Street in Sarnia, and you can’t miss it. A narrow building, with the front of its second floor covered by the outsize signage: Lola’s Lounge writ large in flowing neon script, voluptuously crimson. Red is Tania Auger’s signature colour, and the owner of Lola’s has put her unmistakable stamp on every facet of her restaurant, from furnishings to food, from the window treatment to the wine list.

The bones of the old building show through. Operating continuously since the ‘thirties, the shade of the former diner lingers. The swivel stools at the counter have been replaced with metal-framed barstools, but the curved bulkhead above the liquor shelves remains, now backlit with red neon that casts a speakeasy glow over the bottles, and her collection of vintage Canadian and Italian art glass.

Down one side of the room are the original booths, seats now reupholstered, and each booth with its own coat and hat rack.  On the other side of the terrazzo floor (laid in diagonal stripes of light and dark) the booths have been replaced with tables and chairs. While the room seats seventy it feels smaller, more intimate, that sense enhanced by the large coloured glass lamps suspended over each table, and a jungle of shiny sequined decorations that dangle from the ceiling, with swinging lamps over the bar. Tables are set with bread plates, cutlery and glassware, and a rainbow of cloth napkins. The upbeat music is played to be noticed and enjoyed as part of a high energy dining experience. Even with the bright sunshine pouring through the large plate glass window, the ambience is less of lunchtime than ‘afternoon at the seraglio’/ ‘fifties cocktail lounge.

Tania Auger was born a bon vivant and knew from an early age that she and the hospitality business were made for each other. She arrived in London in her late teens, charisma already flowing, to fill a vacancy at the Lamplighter Inn, working as a bartender. This was followed by stints at Howard Johnson’s and much longer stretches at John and Ingrid Blanke’s Gabrielle’s Next Door. Not long after, she became the barkeeper/doyenne at Singapore. Located downstairs from the ultra chic Asian-inspired Sorrenti’s restaurant, Singapore was an instant hit under Auger’s direction.  The intimate bar was an oasis of smoky cosmopolitan seduction and sophistication with an adjoining secluded back room complete with two Moorish -inspired tented booths. The bar boasted a menu of classic cocktails: stingers, manhattans, rusty nails, Rob Roy’s, and martinis, as well as original concoctions that cemented Auger’s reputation as bartender extraordinaire. At the time Auger was also making her name designing and handcrafting her own collection of avant-garde jewellery.

In 1988, Auger’s entrepreneurial streak continued to surface and she leased the Ritz Hotel in Bayfield, and opened the Shark Inn. After a very successful season the building was purchased by Joan Ivey who bought out the lease and paved the way for Auger to return to London and transform a longtime lunch counter into the legendary 99 King. Auger’s high energy approach, design sensibility and idiosyncratic style went a long way into helping to turn a derelict part of King Street into the restaurant mecca it has become. The restaurant and lounge eventually expanded into three buildings in the premises now occupied by the Cello Supper Club.

In the second year of operation she upped the ante and hired uber-chef Jacqueline “Jackie” Shantz for the long run period.

All good things come to an end, and after a lengthy and successful run, in 1997, much to the dismay of a large and diverse clientele, the doors of 99 King were closed. Tania returned to her hometown, and after a brief hiatus opened a new enterprise, the tony Smoked Oyster and a second restaurant / nightclub, Red Tango. Following the events of September 11, 2001, Sarnia, like other Canadian border cities, felt the effects on trade. The locals, sophisticated American customers, Point Edward Charity Casino’s high rollers and the tourists along Sarnia’s stunning riverfront district stayed away in droves. Undeterred, and never one to look backwards, she ‘bit the hair of the dog’ and opened Lola’s Lounge in the summer of 2002.

“When I first opened I was trying to do funky comfort food ‘cause I still had the Red Tango. I was trying to keep the Tango as the dressy place and this as the more comfort… I finally said, ‘Okay, forget it!’ Painted the place red (gotta have red), raised the bar, and put the mirrors in,” recalls Auger. “People were mad at me for closing the Smoked Oyster. It was not easy, people wouldn’t even come.  It took at least a year to get things going again.”

Seven years later Lola’s has seen some changes and permutations in style, staff, and cuisine, but seems settled in for the long run. Giselle Dennis, Lola’s manager has been by Auger’s side every step of the way, doing the books at 99 King, 4 years at The Smoked Oyster and the last 7 at Lola’s.

Despite a current trend to simplicity and seasonality, Auger, who appreciates the “local” philosophy does not follow trends, she sets them. Her menus have a distinct personality consistent with Tania Auger brand, the imprimatur, retro-chic with a continental riff on the traditional. Hers is an anthology of rehabilitated classics like escargot forestiere, crispy frogs legs, oysters Rockefeller, clam chowder and iceberg lettuce (but this incarnation served with beef tenderloin, blue cheese, boiled egg and avocado.) It is food that is brash, sensual and sexy, food that borders on the hedonistic with big flavours. Menus denote exotic locales, diverse flavours and ingredients. The irony of items such as Mama Mia Meatballs with major mozza & baguette and Fashion Forward Cold Seafood Extravaganza reference what is both camp and kitsch.

Lola’s rack of lamb is a culinary legend  with its spicy maple bourbon sauce, whose ingredients came to Auger fully formed in a dream and Chef Shantz perfected during the 99 King years.

Auger has always paid homage to the American bar and grille sensibility and its culinary traditions, especially martinis, big 10 and 12oz. steaks and the freshest fish and seafood.  Lola’s fresh fish is sourced locally from Purdy’s Fish Market, which is one of Southwestern Ontario’s hidden gems, operating since 1900 in Point Edward. There is also a location in Grand Bend and Purdy’s sells its offerings at the Sarnia Farmer’s Market at the corner of Ontario and Proctor Streets. Saturdays 7 a.m. to noon.

Turns out, you can go home again.  Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets. And little man, little Lola wants you. Make up your mind to have no regrets. Recline yourself, resign yourself, you’re through….
Lola’s Lounge

110 Christina St. S. Sarnia, ON

519 336-8088

Exotic fare at your local market

Granadilla. Tamarillo. Curuba. They sound so exotic. And of course they are, to us. But these fruits are commonly consumed in many countries. Humberto Jaramillo and Nohra Tatis are helping to spread the word, here in London.

The couple came to Canada from Columbia a few years ago, with their three young sons. Unable to obtain work in their professions, they decided to put to use their experience with family businesses in earlier years, and their connections in their home country. And now we can enjoy the fruits of their labours.

Entering London’s Farmers Market at the Western Fairgrounds, you’ll forget the snow and ice outside, when you see before you the selection of strange and colourful produce displayed at Humberto and Nohra’s stand. Samples are proffered. Go on, I dare you!

You’ll succumb to the intriguing possibilities. But then you’ll wonder… what the heck do you do with them? In this Internet age the answers are at your fingertips. Plenty of recipes can be found online.

You might be familiar with the purple Passion Fruit, or at least its juice. But try a cousin, the Granadilla. Crack open the golden shell, and scoop out the sweet seeds; a little like a pomegranate to look at, without the finicky aspect.

Sample some physalis, known as uchuva in Spanish, and also called ‘ground cherry’, ‘goldenberry’, and ‘cape gooseberry’ (for the papery ‘cape’ that encloses the fruit, according to one source). Physalis contains antioxidants, and in its native habitat has both medicinal and culinary value. Use it in a salad, chutney or salsa. Make jam, bake it in a pie, or simply enjoy it au naturel. I even discovered a recipe for coffee crepes with physalis filling.

The outer skin of the tamarillo, or tree-tomato, is tart, even bitter. But the seeds and flesh are tangy, sometimes slightly sweet. Rich in vitamins (especially Vitamin E) and iron, the tamarillo can be eaten as it comes, in a salad, or sliced in a sandwich or with cold meats. Generally, however, it is cooked. Try tamarillo in a sauce or curry. Wikipedia’s suggestions include adding it to boeuf bourguignon. And, as for most of these fruits, there are appetizing dessert recipes to be found.

Related to the tamarillo is the bright orange lulo, or naranjilla (‘little orange’). Juicy, slightly acid, with a pineapple-lemon taste, the pulp can be eaten raw, or used in jams, jellies, sherbet, or baked desserts. Most commonly, lulos are used to make juice.

Humberto and Nohra import all these fruits, and more, from their native Columbia. Stop by their stand at the Market and sample the wares. Be sure to try some of the delicious juices that are also on offer. Then take some granadillas home to your kitchen (or curubas, or physalis) and get adventurous. Bon appetit, or rather, buen provecho!

* *

You can find all these fruits, and more, at London’s Farmers Market, and at Remark Fresh Market.

Enquiries? mailto:contactus@jtintertrade.com

I say “Yes, yes, yes”

“Good things come to those who wait.” Well, having done a fair bit of that over the years, I was quite chuffed when our editor offered a new assignment – to represent eatdrink at a media event hosted by The Stratford Chefs School.

The March issue of eatdrink will have more about the SCS.  This article chronicles my introduction to that establishment, and to some of the people I met there.

The first step was to check in at Bentley’s.   The casual pub atmosphere of this restaurant/bar belies the quality of the rooms at Bentley’s Inn.  My ‘loft’ room offered main floor sitting area (small), bed with Tempur-Pedic mattress (large), and a wall mounted plasma TV (medium). Stairs led to the bathroom and a smaller sleeping area with gas fireplace and another TV. The view from the two-storey windows was of Albert Street and Stratford’s old Victorian-style City Hall, flag flowing from the tower against the clear blue winter sky.

Just before six o’clock I met my fellow ‘media guests’ at the reception area, and under the guidance of Falan Hamilton of High View Communications (the School’s public relations firm), we walked over to Rundles.  My colleagues were Heather Rivers (reporter for the Sentinel-Review in Woodstock), Andrew Coppolino (Kitchener-Waterloo Record), Brian Shypula (Stratford Beacon Herald) and Jill Worthington (London Free Press).

Rundles is one of Stratford’s premier dining establishments, but more importantly for the purpose of our visit, is its connection to the Stratford Chefs School. Owner James (Jim) Morris, along with Eleanor Kane of The Old Prune Restaurant co-founded the school in 1983. The school itself is located on the same premises, and uses many of the restaurant’s facilities in the course of education our future culinary professionals.

Once inside Rundles, chilled only slightly during the brisk walk, we surrendered our coats and climbed the stairs to a small sitting room.  Richard Maloney, innkeeper and chef at the Rundles-Morris House (more about that later), welcomed us with glasses of Prosecco, and we joined those already assembled. As well as Mr. Morris and Ms. Kane, the company included Tony Hirons of The Merchant Vintner, James Chatto, renowned food writer and currently writer-in-residence at the SCS, and another of our eminent food writers, and best-selling cookbook author Elizabeth Baird.

A short while later, refreshed, entertained, informed and relaxed, it was back into coats and gloves and scarves.  We stepped out to walk the few blocks to The Old Prune Restaurant.

An integral part of the course curriculum at the SCS is the Visiting Chefs program (more details next month). Tonight we were looking forward to a dinner prepared by Chef Yvan Lebrun of Restaurant Initiale in Quebec City. Students of the school would be assisting Chef in the kitchen and working front of house. Roland Leclerc is Chef’s wife and business partner, and Maitre d’ at Initiale. She backed up the students in the dining room, and proved every bit as ebullient and professional as I had heard.

Once seated, and provided with water and a glass of wine, we enjoyed brief talks from Elizabeth Nowatschin (the evening’s Student Chef), Matthew Consiglio, (student and Maitre d’ for the event), Winemaker Derek Barnett of Lailey Vineyard, and Mme. Leclerc. Our meal then proceeded through five courses, each paired with a wine from Lailey. Included on the menu were Kadaiff of Pork with Foie Gras and Leeks, and Roast Lamb Loin with an Epigram (look it up yourself) of Mustard and Rutabaga. The dessert course included a Sabayon of Maple Syrup, and was served with another Lailey triumph, Vidal Icewine 2005.

These dinners are offered throughout the school year, and provide the dining public with a marvelous opportunity to experience the skill of great chefs that would otherwise be attainable only with greater distances to be traveled, and considerably greater outlay.

Perhaps the conversation wasn’t as sparkling, witty and urbane as I would like to recall, but the combination of food, wine, service, people and atmosphere made it seem so. I hope our hosts enjoyed it as much as we did, even though the evening was really part of a PR exercise.

Mid-dinner I stepped as unobtrusively as possible into the kitchen, and stood quietly in a corner for a few minutes, curious to experience the atmosphere. Consider: we have one of Canada’s leading chefs, a Frenchman by birth, producing a complicated menu for about thirty discriminating patrons and assisted by – students.  I was prepared for shouting, Gallic curses and sneers, cringing students, perhaps flying pots or even sharp cutlery.  None of it. Chef and his brigade pursued their craft in quiet conversation, smiling, occasionally laughing, moving so smoothly as to seem choreographed. I later asked Rolande Leclerc if this was her husband’s usual modus operandi, or if he was controlling himself for the occasion, or was perhaps restrained by the language barrier. But no, she laughingly reassured me. What I had witnessed was Chef Lebrun in his element, behaving as per usual.

One final cup of coffee, and a thoroughly enjoyable experience came to an end. Outside the night air was bracing, and with snow crunching beneath our boots, we wended inn-ward through ever-so-lightly falling snow.

(The ladies and gentlemen of the press reconvened a bit later for a night-cap, but sensibly retired at a reasonable hour.  Our ‘work’ was to continue next morning, with the summons of the school bell.)

Next day we met at Features, on Ontario Street. Eggs Benedict had been the intention but (perhaps it had something to do with last night’s dinner) I chose a lighter breakfast. Quick and friendly service, a great menu – I’ve found a new favourite place in Features.

Then off again towards Rundles. Our destination was not the restaurant itself, but a building next door. The Rundles-Morris House was designed by Canadian architects Brigitte Shim and Howard Sutcliffe, and exemplifies their trademark style. Lots of wood and windows, and an airy ambiance underscore relationships between the construction, its environment, and the people who live in it. When the owner is not in residence the house can be rented. For this morning the house was ours to enjoy, and in a few hours we would sit down to lunch in the dining room, with a floor-to-ceiling view towards Lake Victoria.

But we had to sing for our supper, so to speak.  Today we were the kitchen brigade to Chef Lebrun. With humour and much beaming encouragement – but very little English – he put us through our paces.  Potatoes were chopped, baby bok choy blanched, celery root sliced, and sauces stirred (on a Thermidor Professional range).  Admittedly, Chef did the serious work (including preparing the treasure – black truffle from Perigord), and we had translators in both Mme. Leclerc and Rosaire Roy.  Richard Maloney kept us supplied with refreshments and graters and rolling pins and whisks and a number of very sharp knives.

Part way through the morning we were joined by Jacob Richler, who came to know Yvan Lebrun in the course of working on his current project.  We can look forward in some months to the publication of his book on ten top Canadian chefs. I confess to being somewhat overcome. Jacob Richler! Mordecai’s son! Jacob Two-Two in the flesh!  He must be fed up with it. At any rate, Mr. Richer was game to take part in the preparations, and joined us for lunch, as did Eleanor Kane. Tony Hirons arrived to be sommelier to our group. Among the wines that he presented with lunch were a Pouilly Fume 2004, from Domaine de Berthiers, which was paired to great effect with the opening course, Fish Brandade and Shellfish Bisque.  To go with the dessert (various lovely chocolaty things) Mr. Hirons poured an intriguing and unusual Barolo.  The recipe for Barolo Chinato calls for an infusion of rhubarb root, cinchona bark, and a number of other aromatic herbs. Full-bodied, of course, it is slightly sweet, with a somewhat medicinal (but by no means unpleasant) finish. While interesting on its own, this Barolo Chinato proved its depth when savoured with the chocolate.

All good things come to an end, and with coffee cup drained, thank-yous said, hands shaken and cheeks kissed, it was back to London. My companion for the drive? Nat King Cole, with ‘The Frim-Fram Sauce’.

Since walking out of the theatre after viewing “An Inconvenient Truth”, with that 8 1/2” x 11” sheet of paper in hand suggesting ten things that I could do to stave off the doom, I have tried to be a better person. Really.  The light bulbs have been changed, the washing machine is running on cold water and I’ve complained to Loblaws about all that plastic packaging on their organic cookies. I’m even looking to sell the gas-guzzler for something more environmentally – friendly. But there’s only so much I can do, and this business of buying carbon offsets confuses me.

I found an answer to my angst last week, touring the countryside. This is the year I make a serious effort to eat locally. And if that sounds stoic and virtuous, then that’s me. But really I think it’s going to be fun. I’ve been farmer’s marketing since high school, when we used to bike down to the St. Lawrence Market on a Saturday morning, and give Mum a night off by turning our fresh-from-the-farm purchases into dinner.

The path of produce from farmer’s field to dining room table is often tortuous, but can be refreshingly direct. Consumers in our little corner of the world are blessed. Whether you are actively seeking ways to reduce you carbon footprint on the home front, to improve the quality of your dining out experiences, or are a purveyor to the public palate intent on providing locally sourced products of outstanding quality, you need look only a little further than your own doorstep.

And there are lots of people that are more than happy to show you the way, groups that are actively engaged in promoting area producers, and trying to not only smooth the path from our farms to our kitchens, but to increase traffic on that path. The Internet is a great start your search, or drop into your local tourism office. Many local tourist boards provide maps or at least listings of area markets and producers. The Stratford Tourism Alliance recently rolled out their guides for ‘Epicurean Treks’.

Even a cursory look around will make astoundingly clear a couple of points: the bounty of our countryside, and the number of skilled, caring and impassioned people who work around us, producing our food. Within a day’s drive of Toronto, London, Stratford, Niagara, Windsor – wherever you are – you’ll find (reusable) bags full of good things to eat, and meet some very interesting and nice people.

Last Wednesday morning I was in Luke Sheepers’ Breadworks in Stratford, watching him kneading, shaping and baking the daily breads.  At lunch a few hours later some of that bread was on my plate at Bijou, along with roasted Berkshire pork loin from Fred de Martines’ farm, and a puree of locally foraged wild leeks. All washed down with a very drinkable pilsner from craft microbrewer Joe Tuer’s Stratford Brewing Company. Hundred-mile diet? More like a few kilometers.

You’ll find small dairies and cheese producers all over southwestern Ontario. Some fine ones are in the middle of Amish and Mennonite communities. And one of these is Monforte Dairy, an artisanal cheese company in Millbank. It is owned and operated by Ruth Klahssen, an early alumna of the Stratford Chef School. Ruth left a career as a highly regarded chef to pursue cheese-making. Monforte specializes in sheep and goat milk products and their output includes both traditional and innovative cheeses.

Spend a bit of time talking with Ruth and you’ll learn not only about the cheese-making process, but also, perhaps, some facts about the basic foodstuffs in your fridge, and how they got there. I was more than slightly discomfited to discover what your average dairy cow is subjected to in her too brief life, in order to provide the milk my family currently consumes.

But onto happier pastures… With or without children, visiting a farm where livestock is raised the old-fashioned way is both relaxing and revivifying. For me it’s a return to childhood, recalling summer mornings collecting the eggs from the hen-house, hot afternoons weeding the vegetable garden that provided salads, beans, potatoes and more for the farm family and workers, and calling the cows in for milking. Farms like this still exist, just a drive away. And their fruit, their greens and vegetables, their pork and beef and eggs all find their way to your local markets and restaurants.

Visit Sunnivue Farm near Ailsa Craig, and you will find milk cows whose every comfort is of concern to owners Alex and Ellinor Nurnberg. Their award-winning Holsteins are living proof that contented cows really do give better milk. And while you’re there you can visit the farm store for fresh home-baking, seasonally available fruits and vegetables, eggs, maple syrup and more

At Perth Pork Products in Sebringville Fred de Martines has been raising hogs since 1979. When his son expressed a desire to raise some himself, loose on the pasture, it was the beginning of what is proving to be a highly successful venture into the world of heritage breeds.  The farm is now home to Tamworths, Berkshires, and out a ways from the main barns, near the bush lot, wild boars.

Compared to the hybrids, commonly reared in confinement, these breeds offer a different texture and more flavourful taste. The qualities stem partly from the breeds themselves, but also are due to such things as feed, soil quality, and other characteristics of their environment. Restaurateurs in the region can’t get enough of Fred’s pork: chefs love to work with it, and diners love to eat it.

If you’re a high-end diner-out you’ve probably come across menus that identify their greens by source. If they come from a farm called Soiled Reputation, that is. Soiled Reputation is Antony John and his wife Tina Vandenheuval. What started out as a bit of a gamble has become a huge success in the world of organic gardening (although it sidelined John’s artistic career). The 80-acre farm provisions restaurants, homes and retail customers from Stratford, London, Toronto and Niagara with custom salad mixes, greens, and over 50 varieties of vegetables.

These producers, farmers and gardeners amongst whom we live have not just recently jumped onto the bandwagon of ‘fresh, local, organic, seasonal and sustainable.’ They’ve been at it for years, perhaps taking over the family business, or coming to it from related backgrounds. Their livelihoods are their passion.

If you’re wondering why you should bother to get on this wagon yourself, here a just a few reasons:

v    it sets an good example

v    it supports our neighbours (yes, those producers are our neighbours)

v    it’s earth-friendly

v    it contributes to economic sustainability

v    it’s virtuous and enjoyable

v    it tastes better, much better.

So toss that Mexican tomato, abandon that apple from Chile. Go to market!

Go for a drive! Heck, go out for dinner.