“A good baker ferments a great deal…” The Proof is in Stratford, at The Bakery at Pazzo

June 24th, 2011 § 0

Where else could I have found myself enjoying the heady aromas of baking breads and pastries, the taste of the best cappuccino in recent memory, and the sight of Colm Feore bantering with the bakers, baristas, and customers? Absolutely nowhere as delightful as The Bakery at Pazzo.

The Stratford area is home to many who are passionate about food – producers and consumers alike. It has eateries of every description and style, beer makers, cheese makers, chocolatiers and sommeliers, emporiums and market stalls. But barely a bakery in sight, until this spring.

That’s why Larry McCabe and Jeff Leney, the owners of Pazzo Ristorante Bar and Pizzeria, teamed up with their head chef Sean Collins and with baker John Bex. In May The Bakery at Pazzo opened next door to the restaurant on Ontario Street. “It’s a completely different experience,” says restaurateur Larry McCabe, “and it gets better every day!” Bex is the yeast in this mix, the master baker whose years of experience, high standards and effervescent enthusiasm are making the Bakery rise successfully.

Despite a few decades in Canada, John Bex hasn’t lost the accent of London, England, where he grew up and learned his trade – baking runs in the family. Bex was the Pastry Chef at London’s iconic Claridge’s Hotel, and at The Park Lane Hotel, before coming to Canada. While in Toronto he worked at the Four Seasons, and helped to design the Advanced Pastry Courses at George Brown College. Now in Stratford, he is also an instructor at the Stratford Chefs School.

Bex loves working in the light-filled space: bakery operations take place in the back half of the shop, wide open to the public view. “Normally,” he quips, “they put us down in the basement!” Ron Nuhn is the designer behind the transformation of this former clothing store. Daylight shining through the large plate-glass windows suffuses pale butter-yellow walls. The walls themselves are relieved with harmonious areas of contemporary brick. Partitions and shelving are of wood reclaimed from an old Mennonite barn. Some of the same wood provided the immense work counter that runs down the centre of the bakery proper.

Simply walking in the door seems to put people into a more relaxed and amiable mood. In this ambience, to lounge at the coffee counter, indulging in your pastry or sandwich, or just a great cup of coffee, provides a few moments of delicious comfort. Step back and people-watch, enjoy the view outside, chat with strangers, and look on as the bakers bake.

Customers come for specifics (the morning coffee, a favourite treat, their daily bread) or to browse the shelves of quality comestibles – pastas, oils, conserves and condiments are among the temptingly displayed merchandise. Some pop in for their lunchtime sandwich, and are usually open to trying something different, says Bex. Brioche with goat cheese and roasted pepper? Of course, I’d try that.

In determining the range of offerings, Bex and his partners were prepared to take their cues from the customers. But it seems that whatever they put out, people happily consume. Not surprising, really, given the quality of the goods.

Breads and classic French patisserie comprise most of The Bakery’s output. “That’s my background,” says Bex. His standards are uncompromising. For example, he extols the virtues of the flour they most commonly use: “It comes from Quebec, from the only place that makes this flour exactly to the formula of French flour. They have a certain way of milling. They don’t use metal rollers. Those tend to overheat the grain, and change the flavour…” My own simple gauge of a bakery’s calibre is the croissant. (Unsophisticated, I know, but it works for me.) I give these ones top marks. “There’s so much butter in the recipe,” jokes Bex, “we call it butter suspended in flour!”

But “uncompromising” doesn’t rule out inventive. There is a baked cheesecake that’s “different enough that people want it.” The special ingredient must be Ruth Klahsen’s cheese. There’s also a brownie that incorporates roasted beets, and yes, it’s great.

I suppose it’s true, that we do not live by bread alone. But it is oh, so tempting, to consider the possibilities, when visiting The Bakery at Pazzo.

The Bakery at Pazzo
76 Ontario Street, Stratford
519-508-2244

Eric Boyar Serves Up Classic Cuisine for Our Times at SixThirtyNine in Woodstock

May 30th, 2011 § 0

Here in the gentle southwest of Ontario, we don’t much suffer the scourges of famine and flood, of fire and drought. Instead, we enjoy the advantages of one of the globe’s benevolent environments. Eric Boyar appreciates the nature in which he was nurtured, and has integrated it, along with training, experience, and his own inventiveness and imagination, to create the flourishing restaurant that is SixThirtyNine.

The house at the corner of Peel and Young in Woodstock was once Boyar’s family home. It has been gracefully altered into a restaurant: casual yet elegant in the dining room, modern and very functional in the kitchen. It’s the output of that kitchen that is drawing accolades from a widening circle of diners and food critics. In his hands, meat and potatoes might become, for instance, grilled beef striploin (Ontario AAA), dusted with porcini, and served with potato gratin, just-harvested asparagus, and chasseur sauce – ‘tis a transformation devoutly to be consumed.

It’s a good thing that sometimes you just can’t take the boy out of the country. Boyar’s father and grandfather both grew up in this farming community, and his youthful employment was on family farms. This was “a huge influence” on his future. (The scent of a barn full of freshly harvested leeks brings tears to your eyes like nothing else, he says with a nostalgia we might not share, but can, with wonder, appreciate.) Fresh and local foods made their way, via his mother’s kitchen, onto Boyar’s plate. Good food, cooked well – basic ingredients in the recipe that is Eric Boyar. Mix in just enough junior restaurant experience to realize there’s a lot more to learn, then add chef training. Incorporate all the basics. Enhance with several years working under some very good chefs, to fully assimilate the classic repertoire. Allow the flavours of a personal culinary philosophy to develop, and return home. Finish in your own kitchen, garnish with the support of friends and family, and serve.

Of his training at Humber College, Boyar declares, “It was a fantastic introduction to the industry!” As well, it gave him a thorough grasp of the basics, too often undertaught (or underlearned). As garde manger at The Boulevard Club in Toronto, he honed his fundamental skills, then moved onto Mistura. Working with Massimo Capra provided “a good all-round feel for the industry.” More than that though, in a business known for demanding and often unsympathetic bosses, Boyar enjoyed the experience: “Such a character…a wonderful personality to work for!” By contrast, David Lee of Splendido Bar & Grill was “one of the hardest people I’ve ever had to work with,” says Boyar, but not without admiration. He describes his time there as perhaps the best learning experience of his career. In 2003, Boyar, having worked his way up the ladder, took the position of Sous Chef at Crush Wine Bar, where he stayed for the next two years, before moving back to Woodstock. His intention had always been “to eventually have something that I could call my own, and do the food that I wanted to. Instead of putting in the sixteen hours a day for someone else, I could do it for myself.”

And do it himself he has – with some help from family and friends. His mother, Pauline Bucek, is no stranger to the restaurant business, and no mean cook herself. She is the welcoming face in the dining room, and hard-working support behind the scenes.

The main dining area seats 28 and also has a generously sized and comfortable bar area. Tucked away through a doorway is what must be sought-after seating – four ringside seats overlooking the kitchen. Customers love it, and the staff enjoy the interest from, and interaction with, their guests.

There is also seating outside. With just a few tables under a wine-red awning, overlooking the lawn and garden, it feels less like a restaurant patio than a friend’s backyard. On one side is an old industrial building. Its aged brick walls meld into an unobtrusive background of fir trees, ferns and hostas. In the sunlit beds, old-fashioned perennials mingle with herbs that are destined for the kitchen. “Everything you see we’ve done ourselves,” says Boyar. It’s not a boast, but an expression of satisfaction for their achievements.

Of course, the main achievement is found on the customers’ plates. When SixThirtyNine opened its doors six years ago, the concept of eating locally had barely begun to find its way into common dialogue. The menu at SixThirtyNine was always based on the classics, says Pauline, and the food was always sourced locally. But they’ve noticed that the clientele has grown more open to a culinary style that might once have seemed willfully eccentric.

Duck Prosciutto is very traditional fare. Boyar commences in the standard fashion, but every step is graced with local ingredients and personal flair. The duck is from Everspring Farms in Ilderton, then “we smoke the walnuts, we take a beautiful goat cheese from Monforte Dairy…we put our own stamp on [the dish].”

You’ll find such reconstructions throughout the menu. The salad includes Sleger’s mixed greens and fennel, and in the vinaigrette, Boyar incorporates herbs from the garden and bee pollen from Oxford Honey & Supplies. And so on, through apple-smoked trout, pork belly with morel ravioli, foie gras torchon with… Just go. Find out for yourself.

This chef delights in the symbiotic connections he has with local farmers and area producers, and the personal relationships they have cultivated. And he wants to spread the word. “All this is available to us, to everyone. We want people to be able to get it themselves.” To that end, the back page of the menu provides a listing of his suppliers. Credit given where credit is due: “It’s not just my name, but it’s their name.”

Boyar is not trying to convert the world. It’s simply the way he chooses to do what he does. “We have such wonderful things here in Ontario, why wouldn’t we offer them?” And the seasonal availability is part of the attraction. If we were offered peaches all year round, he says, we’d lose some of the pleasure. “But if you have to wait for it….” And after a long winter, “I’m looking forward to when the asparagus pokes its head out of the ground.” Yes, winters can be challenging. “But that’s the reality of it.” Hothouse produce is a stopgap, and can be flavourful. But when speaking of food grown outdoors, Boyar waxes lyrical. On tomatoes, for instance: “I think the reason they’re so delicious is that they have to bear the elements, to endure through heavy rainfalls. That gives a special quality.”

So, how does a creative personality, bent on putting his personal ethos into practice, continue to develop in his métier? “We all have a passion about what we do – putting good food on the plate. And there’s been a really great progression in what we do here, while keeping true to what we say.” But now, Eric Boyar is moving to another level. “Instead of getting lamb racks, we’re now getting whole lamb, and using head to tail. We’re getting Berkshire pork (from Black Bow Farms in Sweaburg) and using half pigs. I’m making sausage, cold-smoking the trout… Some of this I’ve done in the past, but not to this extent. I’m learning and doing.”

This approach demands a degree of flexibility from the kitchen, as well as receptivity from the customer. Limitations of quantity prevent certain cuts from being listed on the menu, so some items are served as specials. “We’ll do something like braised shoulder with handmade pasta, very simple and traditional.” And, says Boyar, “Some customers are adventurous!”

At SixThirtyNine, the wines receive attention from both Eric and Pauline, who take great care to match the list to the food. “We do it all together,” says Pauline. “We taste every wine that we serve.” This is an area, though, where culinary philosophy bows to customer demand, and there are some nonlocal wines on the list. A good wine list is always a work in progress: expect to see more from Tawse Winery and Lailey Vineyard in the near future.

The natural state of mankind, wrote Mr. Hobbes, would be “solitary, poor, nasty, brutish, and short.” Eric Boyar and Pauline Bucek give us reason to hope. At SixThirtyNine, they provide compelling arguments that nature can help make our existence engagingly communal, full, morally satisfying, civilized, and (depending how long you linger at the table) delightfully sustained.

SixThirtyNine
639 Peel Street, Woodstock
519-536-9602

http://www.sixthirtynine.com/

Making Connections that Matter Social Enterprise at The London Training Centre

November 1st, 2010 § 0

Glassware and cutlery sparkled on crisp white linen, beneath the twinkling of hundreds of tiny white lights. Dining room staff stood at the ready, in their black and white. A company of chefs continued their preparations.

This, however, was not your usual dining out experience. The lights were twined around the posts and beams of an old barn, forty minutes outside London. The staff were students from the London Training Centre, and the chefs were not cooking in any state-of-the-art facility, but in a tent behind the barn, overlooking the farm fields, and trees whose leaves were turning red and gold in the cool of this October afternoon.

Food for Thought was a fundraising, and consciousness-raising, event. Since 1987, the London Training Centre has been preparing people for employment, primarily in the food service and hospitality industry. It delivers its services to both the public (education) and private sectors, and has focused mainly on food handling and service. The LTC is now preparing to operate a Food & Education Centre for London and the surrounding region. This initiative is “rooted in the idea that food – how we grow it, share it and eat it – can be a catalyst for change.”

It’s a concept for our times, as more consumers are becoming more aware that our food comes not from vague, uninteresting and unimportant sources, but that it is part of the tapestry of our communities and economy. The mission of the Food & Education Centre is “to evolve local and sustainable food choices in a modern lifestyle through increased awareness of the value of food to redirect consumer eating patterns and greater community connection with food production systems [...], which in turn increases consumer support for local foods and job opportunities for LTC clientele.”

Lofty goals indeed: to engage a population, to build a sustainable food system, and to encourage personal success. However, the LTC has not only experience, but the support of strong partners and a talented and devoted staff and board membership. Lots of them were present at the Food for Thought event. Steve James, who’s been very busy since the days of Café Bruges in London, is Program Manager at the LTC. He brought along some talented friends to share kitchen duties: Sean Cousins from Vancouver, John Fisher from Kitchener, and Londoners Jon Traut, Jason Anness and Ken Mickle. Powerhouse Meriel Cromarty is LTC’s Project Supervisor, and provided the venue. Training staff, members of the Board, and numerous supporters were on hand to offer information, or simply to enthuse about the present pleasures and future possibilities for everyone in our area who is interested in food.

And the main event? A feast prepared from area farm products, the output of regional food artisans like bread maker Penelope Holt, and cheese maker Ruth Klahsen, all prepared by a community of chefs.

“At the end of the day,” says LTC’s Executive Director David Corke, “we all eat.” And in the best of all possible worlds, we make some connections when we do: between farm and kitchen, between kitchen and plate, and between some of those people with whom we share the world.

Walking the Talk: Jeff Pastorius of On the Move Organics

February 10th, 2010 § 0

“Think globally – act locally.” For some, that’s a cliché. For Jeff Pastorius, it’s a maxim that he applies to his life, and his business. While pursuing an education in International and Comparative Studies, Jeff “started to recognize that not only is food distribution a major issue for developing nations… it’s becoming an international crisis.”

He has translated thought into action, and his enterprise offers Londoners the opportunity to put their own beliefs into practice.

On any Saturday morning at the Western Fair Farmers Market, Jeff can be found at On the Move Organics, where a growing number of customers have discovered they can find quality local produce and products that are produced sustainably and delivered with a low carbon footprint. You might find yourself being served by Jeff’s sister, Jennifer. She and their mother, Jeannette Pastorius, support Jeff in the business.

Photo: Kelly Hunt

Photo: Kelly Hunt


At the market stall, you can find a range of items to fill fridge and pantry, including flour, grains and cereals from the famed Arva Flour Mill; greens, seedlings and sprouts from Slegers Greenhouses in Strathroy (my favourite is the living basil – with the root ball attached, a large bunch sits on the counter, always fresh and ready for use, even in the dead of winter); beautiful garlic from Dresden (just stop buying that garlic from China!);honey; dairy products; breads and much, much more. Of his sources, says Jeff, “the priority for me is supporting local (as local as I can), independent, and certified organic.” He also considers how interested the producers are in supporting local food politics, and of course, the quality of their product.

On the Move Organics began as a delivery service, bringing food boxes to the front door. Taking a stall at the market has made the food accessible to a much wider population, as has his presence at the Masonville farmers market (Fridays from May to October). But delivery service continues in Woodfield and Old East, with plans for expansion this year to Old North and more. When weather permits, deliveries are made by custom-built bicycle trailers – the ultimate in healthy, sustainable living, for both business and customer!

It all comes back to philosophy, and practicing what you believe in. “In London… we don’t have the capacity to take all the food that’s being grown around here and bring it into the city.” Instead, we buy food that is distributed by large businesses, and sold through “big box” stores. Those locally grown apples have often traveled from here to Toronto and back. “Our food infrastructure… is almost nonexistent,” he declares. With regret, Jeff remarks on the great quantities of quality food that originate in this region, but that end up on distant tables. “I see a large need to organize and distribute local, organic [food].”

As part of the business plan, On the Move Organics now has a retail space and warehousing facilities in south London. Jeff is now able to serve customers with a storefront that offers everything available at the markets, as well as a number of items that he is unable to stock in the smaller space of a market stall. The premises were formerly home to The Fire Roasted Coffee Company. When Dave Cook moved his roastery to the Western Fair Farmers Market, Jeff was able to take advantage of much-needed space. Dave wanted to be sure that his customers in the area continued to enjoy the service on which he built his business, so his fresh-roasted, Fair Trade Certified coffees are still available at this location.

As Jeff’s business grows, so does community participation in a movement that only a few years ago was unknown to many. “Fresh,” “local,” “organic,” “sustainable” and “seasonal” are now part of the common lexicon. More and more of us, culturally and economically diverse, are changing the ways in which we consider the food in our lives, from shopping to cooking to consumption.

And there’s more to it, suggests Jeff. “There is an argument to be made that it’s more social; it actually increases the quality of life.” At a large supermarket, “you are just making purchases.” But when shopping locally, whether at a small shop, at a market, or at the farm gate, “you’re engaging…with your social environment.” Six degrees of separation are reduced to one. You have conversations with neighbours, make new acquaintances, enjoy new experiences. It’s not just food that keeps us healthy.

Jeff doesn’t do sound bytes. But here’s a good phrase: “This is about farms, this is about politics, this is about community as much as it is about business and making a living. These are all very important factors, and they all interact with each other.”

Food for thought, indeed.

On the Move Organics
3392 Wonderland Road (between Southdale and Wharncliffe)
Building 7, Unit 6
519-719-7675
onthemoveorganics@gmail.com

http://onthemoveorganics.ca/index.html

Store Hours:
Monday, Tuesday, Friday: 10 – 6
Wednesday, Thursday: 10 – 4

Western Fair Farmers Market: Saturday: 7 – 3
Masonville Farmers Market: Friday, May to October

Black History Month in London

January 25th, 2010 § 0

The very successful organization of London’s Black History Month events prove that it’s time to revise the derogatory cliché about design by committee. With input from numerous groups in the London area, and under the aegis of the London Black History Coordinating Committee, this celebration has proven to be a crowd-pleaser for the past several years. Londoners can anticipate numerous special activities and performances during the upcoming 8th Annual Black History Month, this February.

The roots of this event go back to 1929, when historian Carter G. Woodson established Negro History Week. Initiatives by the Canadian Negro Women’s Association in the 1950′s, and later by the Ontario Black History Society, among others, have led to BHM being celebrated across the country each February.

The ongoing efforts of numerous Londoners contribute to the success of our local celebrations. Many are unsung members of diverse groups across the city. Michelle Edwards is to be credited with bringing together the many groups and volunteers, as well as supporting partners that include the City of London, the London Public Library, the University of Western Ontario, Museum London, and the Cross Cultural Learner Centre.

Speaking on behalf of the London Black History Coordinating Committee, Christina Lord explains that exposure to and involvement in BHM events is empowering for Black youth, in that it highlights positive aspects of the Black experience, acquaints them with strong role models, and strengthens their connection to the community. As well, Londoners of all ages and cultures can enjoy experiences that are both educational and engaging.

This year’s theme is “Celebrating the Family”, and opportunities abound to learn about the community’s diverse histories, cultures, and personalities. The opening celebration will be held January 30, from 2-5 p.m. at Museum London. A new exhibit offers portrayals of local Black communities, and arts, crafts and music will be presented in the Community Gallery. Admission is free.

At the London Regional Children’s Museum the focus is on family. Visitors will enjoy games, stories, music, and hands-on activities, as well as the opportunity to sample African and Caribbean foods.

The Closing Gala is always a lively and well-attended affair. Held at the Wolf Performance Hall, this year’s gala will be take place on Thursday, February 25th. Featured performers include Denise Pelley, Marque Smith and Janis Mark, electric Soul, Saidat, Rwandan Dancers, and Steel Drums. The Gala is also the occasion for the presentation of awards to two outstanding Black Community Achievers.
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Between the opening and closing celebrations are many other activities, events and performances. For details of events, please refer to the links below.

Embrace this opportunity to participate in 2010’s Black History Month. All Londoners are welcome.

Photo: Members of the Rwandan Dance Troupe, based in London.
They performed at the closing gala for Black History Month 2009 at Wolf Hall, Central Library. (Zivai Muvuti/Insider)

The London Cross Cultural Learner Centre
Marilyn Cook: 519-432-1133 ext. 240

http://www.lcclc.org/bhm_background.html

Museum London
519-661-0333

http://www.museumlondon.ca/

London Children’s Museum
21 Wharncliffe Road South

http://www.londonchildrensmuseum.ca/

Christina Lord: 519-850-9997 or
Dhira: 519-434-5726

Wolf Performance Hall, London Public Library
251 Dundas Street
1-800-265-1593

http://www.londonpubliclibrary.ca/

Congress of Black Women of Canada, London Ontario Chapter
www.cbwlondon.org

Ontario Black History Society

http://www.blackhistorysociety.ca

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Sharing the Good Times, and Some Conversation, with Duke Robillard

November 10th, 2009 § 0

Duke_guitar

A living, breathing Guitar Hero came to town on Sunday night. For legendary blues guitarist Duke Robillard, the show at London’s Music Hall was just one stop on a long list of tour dates. But his professionalism, and genuine love of sharing the music, made you believe that he and the band had trekked up from Rhode Island just to show Londoners a good time.

Sunday night’s show opened with a set by some of London’s own Blues Masters: Tim Woodcock, Rick Taylor and Sam Hurrie. The room didn’t really need warming up, but if it had these were the players to do it. With more than a few decades of experience between them, they worked through an eclectic set of blues tunes with skill and personality.

The headliner, four-time winner of the W.C. Handy Award (now known as the Blues Music Awards), and numerous other accolades, Robillard’s style embraces jazz, blues and swing. A lot of people would describe him as a unique musician, a one-off. In a self-deprecating tone, though, he says, “I don’t claim to do anything original. What I have that’s original is [the] way that I put together what I’ve learned from other people. That’s what traditional music is about. Pick it up and make it your own. Which is what my job on earth is to do. I work very hard at it, and I believe in it. Really that’s it, that’s what I’m all about.”

I first saw Duke Robillard in the ‘70’s, when he played with Roomful of Blues, and later when he performed with The Fabulous Thunderbirds (replacing guitarist Jimmie Vaughn). Since those days he’s been on stage, or in the studio, with musicians as various as Bob Dylan, Tom Waits, Jay McShann, John Hammond, Jimmy Witherspoon, Dr. John and Maria Muldaur.

As he has during all those years, in performance with musicians of so many stripes, Duke brings out the best in an audience. And it’s the audience, not the awards, that he plays for – heart and soul. “I love playing in Canada because the audiences seem to be genuinely into the music, and I’ve been into playing genuine since the seventies… The audiences are great and really respond to the music. And that’s what it’s all about.”

This tour is in part to promote Duke Robillard’s latest disc, Stomp! The Blues Tonight. The audience was treated to some of those early R&B tunes, but, effortlessly versatile, Robillard and his band segued through a variety of melodies. One was a moving homage to Les Paul and Mary Ford, from the soon-to-be released Tales from the Tiki Lounge. (This disc, the first on Robillard’s own Blue Duchess label, is a collaboration with vocalist Sunny Crownover, and was conceived as a tribute to Paul and Ford). That’s the Reason I love You is “a tune from the ‘50’s. I learned it from Les Paul but I play it my own way.” Later, Just Because got the audience sitting up and tapping their toes, with it’s inspired Latin-flavoured intro and ending that showed off drummer Mark Teixeira’s chops. “It’s one of my favourite tunes,” declared Duke. “There was nothing on any [earlier] recording that was Latin, but I thought it was the perfect tune to set up.” On all the pieces Bruce Bears’ keyboard playing was energetic and inspired. Doug “Mr. Low” James has been contributing his tenor and baritone sax stylings to Duke’s music for years, providing a strong anchor whatever the genre and pace. The newest band member, bassist Brad Hallen, is “perfect for this band. He brings in something that I’m happy for” Duke enthuses. Playing both electric and upright, Hallen adds some funk to the group. “Oh, I love it! If it’s the right style, the old style.”

Robillard’s not slowing down anytime soon. “I figure I’m getting old…older! And I have a lot to say. I gotta say it before I check out. I’m really on a mission to do everything I ever wanted to do and get it on record before I leave this earth. Not that I’m planning on checking out anytime soon, but [I have to do it] while my hands still work.” This is a reference to the arthritis that has started to affect Robillard in the past few years, along with bursitis, which is showing up in his left shoulder. “I fight against it,” he admits. “There’s certainly things I used to do that I can’t do anymore.”

While the physical travails of age are moving in, Robillard finds that there are compensations. “I think I’m much more musical…I know so much more as a musician, there’s so much more in the music that I value, than the chops. Everybody in the world goes deeper. It’s typical of any musician… I feel so much deeper than I was when I had all my chops totally together.”

Besides touring, which usually involves upwards of a hundred gigs a year, Robillard spends lots of time in the studio recording, producing and arranging his own music, as well as working with other musicians. Where does the energy come from? “What I believe in gives me my strength. And what I’ve accomplished with other artists that have been my idols, who have believed in me…gives me my strength. The feeling that I know what I want, and that I know what I want is good, that’s what my strength is.”

The evening ended too soon. Responding, as always, to an appreciative and enthusiastic audience the band went overtime, and came back for an encore, before packing up and heading home to Rhode Island. “I did my job if I made people see and feel the music.. and I feel very satisfied about this gig.” So do we, Mr. Robillard, so do we.

If you missed this show, don’t make the same mistake next time Duke Robillard’s in town, sharing the music, and the good times.

A Room with a View

September 28th, 2009 § 0

On the Front Restaurant & Lounge in Sarnia

Some people seem to have been born with a gene that destines them for the hospitality business. Whether they work in a hostelry, in a kitchen, as a server, behind a bar, or in a manager’s office; whether they consciously chose their path, or simply found themselves upon it and unwilling to turn at a cross-road, these people often experience (in spite of the inherent hurdles and hardships) a sense of fulfillment in their fields, and a passion for their careers, that eludes many of us.

Others, however, have the hospitality business thrust upon them. Such was the case for Deborah (Debbie) Renaud-McDermott of Sarnia, and her husband Les McDermott. Eleven years ago they took a step into unfamiliar waters. The couple, both from business backgrounds, but inexperienced in the particular and often peculiar restaurant business, became silent partners in a new venture: On the Front Restaurant and Lounge, on Front Street in Sarnia.

A few years after the former office space had been repurposed, and the restaurant was up and running, the other two members of the group (who did have restaurant experience) opted to leave the association. Debbie realized that she and her husband had “two choices – we lose our investment, or we forge ahead.”

On the Front is situated on the top floor of a building (now called First Sarnia Place) which once housed the offices of a chemical corporation. After exiting the elevator at the 14th floor, one ascends a curved and cantilevered wooden staircase to the restaurant. There is no wheelchair access at present.

The reception area is not brightly lit, but this is made up for as you are led into the restaurant proper. Banks of plate glass, wall-to-wall on two sides of the large room, provide a bright and airy ambience. When you step up to the windows you are rewarded with stunning views of the vibrantly coloured waters of the  St. Clair River, the Blue Water Bridge, the cityscape on the American shore, and the busy flow of life on a river that serves both commercial and recreational traffic. A patio allows patrons to enjoy this all al fresco, weather permitting.

The floor has been separated into utilitarian areas. Central is the lounge, furnished with small café-type tables and banquettes. Patrons can also choose to dine here. Left of the lounge, behind a curved wall, is the former corporate boardroom, now used for private events, business meetings, or for dining room overflow on busy nights. This room also enjoys large windows and attractive views.  Tables can be variously arranged to accommodate up to forty people. “ We say our part-time job is furniture moving,” laughs Debbie.

Continuing through the lounge you enter the carpeted dining room. Seating is a mixture of booths and tables. Whichever you choose, you will have a view into the open kitchen. If that doesn’t hold your attention, and you can wrest your eyes from the window view, you can admire the art displayed throughout the restaurant and lounge. Currently installed are a number of lively acrylic paintings by local artist Judy Brady.

Few will find offence in the menu offerings at On the Front. Starters include Caesar salad, baby spinach salad, and (“‘by far the most favourite appetizer”) bacon-wrapped scallops.

Main courses include rack of lamb (Australian, and available as a full or half rack), Chicken Supreme, bouillabaise (ingredients sourced from Purdy’s, a local and well-known purveyor of fish and seafood), and a ‘pan seared organic [read farmed] Norwegian salmon’.

Beef gets its own menu  page, which notes that all steaks are ‘certified Sterling Silver beef’. While Angus beef, for example, denotes a breed, Sterling Silver is a brand. Owned by Cargill, Incorporated, the brand is based in Wichita, Kansas, and prides itself on the management practices and processes that they use. Among these practices is the use of x-rays on some cuts, to determine amounts of marbling and fat.

The beef menu contains a handy guide to grilling standards, which provides the definitions of ‘Well Done’, and ‘Rare’, for example.

Jeff Crump, chef at Ancaster’s Old Mill (and author of the recently published ‘Earth to Table’) admits that ‘eating local is a massive trend at the moment’, but notes that it’s hardly a new behaviour in human history, and that besides being ‘produced fairly and sustainably [local food is] delicious.’ Trying to serve the best to their customers presents difficulties, though, to many chefs. They lament limited supplies and sources, and the unavoidable shortages of certain items outside of their growing season, or availability of others within the region. There is another consideration, voiced by Deborah Renaud-McDermott: “we have to consider price, what people are willing to spend. We also have to cover our costs…I’d love to be able to do it [but it is] more expensive, unfortunately.”

The inclusion of Maytag blue cheese in the spinach salad will give the culturally erudite a clue as to the importance of using locally sourced foods in this kitchen. (Don’t feel bad: I had to go to Wikipedia, which informed me that “Maytag is a blue cheese produced on the Maytag Dairy Farms outside of Newton, Iowa (the home of the Maytag Corporation). In 1938, Iowa State University developed a new process for making blue cheese from homogenized milk (instead of traditional sheep’s milk).” Maytag Dairy Farms’ website further advises that this cheese is produced by “a time-consuming method of hand making cheese in small batches, using fresh sweet milk from Iowa dairy farms.”).

Chef is responsible for setting the menu, which is then vetted by Debbie with an eye to cost considerations. Regrettably, I did not have an opportunity to speak with On the Front’s  current chef, to discover his food philosophy, or to ask any other questions pertaining to the menu.

The wine list is neither over-long nor over-ambitious. It was “initially started by someone from the LCBO,” says Debbie. “We’ve made minor changes.” The list consists of a number of familiar names, many European and North American, and changes from time to time based on availability, and on recommendations that Deborah receives.

Of working in the restaurant business, says Debbie, “It’s interesting, it’s fun, it’s definitely hard work. You can say good-bye to a social life.”  Acknowledging that service is a vital part of running a restaurant, she credits her staff: “One of the things I’m very proud of is the staff in the front of house, very loyal and hard-working.” Other facets of her job also provide satisfaction. On the Front sponsored the Starbright Summer Festival this past summer. “It was a pleasure to do,” she enthuses, adding that it was also “ a good thing”  for the business.

Deborah Renaud-McDermott is living proof that you don’t need that mysterious hospitality gene to keep a restaurant running. You need determination, a solid understanding of the business, an eye on the bottom line, and the will to make it all work.  And it helps to have a room with a view.

On the Front Restaurant & Lounge

201 Front Street North

Sarnia, ON

N7T 7T9

519 332-4455

http://www.onthefront.com/

Crazy? ….Like a Fox

September 22nd, 2009 § 0


Interpreting the Art and Business of the Restaurant

at Pazzo, in Stratford.

First off, to explain that title: Pazzo translates from the Italian most often as  crazy, but connotes as well many of the synonyms we use in English, terms that range from derogative to amusing.

Owners Jeff Leney and Larry McCabe accepted the suggestion from one of their original partners in the business, and as McCabe remarks, “anybody who’s ever started a restaurant would think it’s appropriate…you have to be crazy to do it.”

But this establishment was developed on some very solid and sane foundations.

The two were partners from the beginning, and both brought related experience to their enterprise. “Jeff and I were always involved with restaurants…Jeff did quite a bit more on the kitchen end of things, I was always front of house.” says McCabe.  When the opportunity arose to take over the basement area of the building, “we had a plan for a pizzeria. We did a lot of research. We did a very comprehensive business plan.”

Even metaphor lends itself to the conceit of a solid foundation: one of the basement walls is  an artifact from Stratford’s history. The exposed stones belonged to one of the town’s earliest buildings, and the wall remains as an integral, and necessary, part of the existing structure.

It was eleven years ago that the partners opened Pazzo Pizzeria, below-stairs from an existing restaurant that was under different ownership. About a year later, when the upstairs space became available, Leney and McCabe moved in, and presented Pazzo Ristorante.

The pizzeria and the restaurant present very different faces, but share some complementary aspects.

Both up and down have dedicated kitchens, each with its own head chef. There is a degree of travel between the kitchens that allows the staff to expand their skills and experience. (Each of the kitchen staff is either a graduate of or enrolled in the Chef School). Both kitchens offer menus that Larry McCabe describes as “modern Italian, heavily focused on really good ingredients. We have long term relationships with local people who provide seasonal ingredients.”

Chef Greg Kuepfer, who presides over the Pizzeria kitchen, began his culinary career in his home town of Stratford, and after chef school spent time at the Hillebrand Winery Restaurant, to complete his training. Hillebrand emphasizes both local terroir and foods in its restaurant, and Keupfer’s training harmonizes with the Pazzo credo.

Don’t be misled by the name ‘pizzeria’.  From the  terra cotta coloured open kitchen issue a variety of dishes, from primi through pasti to secondi, and, of course, pizza. The menu mentions ‘simple Italian food’, but there’s more than a hint of sophistication in many of the items, such as this appetizer: “Arugula and shaved white mushroom salad with lemon, olive oil and parmesan”, or the Italian Stallion pizza – prosciutto, italian sausage, italian bacon, spicy calabrese, bocconcini, roasted garlic and fresh herbs.

The Pizzeria provides two main rooms. The first, which you enter from the stairway, has a welcoming bar, and booths with warm red wood tabletops. Because the building is on a grade, there is also an attractive view from the windows on one side. The second room is the one which offers the lively show from the open kitchen.

Stratford Pilsner is featured in the Pizzeria, but of course wines are also available, from Pazzo’s extensive and well-considered list.

‘The Pizzeria has a large local following,” says McCabe. “It’s more consistent, and it’s busier, especially in the wintertime when we’re closed up[stairs].’

The downstairs area boasts a special little component. The wine cellar can seat up to seven for private dining. Seated at a round table, surrounded by beautiful wines, with floor-to-ceiling glass wall and doors , you are separated from the hustle and bustle, but not from the atmosphere of the lively bar and general dining area. And you enjoy the same friendly and professional service that is a hallmark of Pazzo.

Upstairs, in the restaurant, the atmosphere is distinctly less casual and more upscale. The décor and design were created by Ron Nuhn (the interior designer who has been responsible for the styling of some other Stratford restaurants, as well as Toronto’s Cowbell, and Globe Bistro). The overall look is lots of white and silver, but this is a warm and classic elegance, and the chromatics are alleviated by the bank of large windows on the west side of the room, and by the brown and gold wall covering on the east.

This kitchen is the purview of Sean Collins. He, too, embraces the Pazzo philosophy of using interesting and good quality ingredients, and sourcing locally wherever and whenever possible. (Like many other chefs, Collins acknowledges the challenges of sharing a small number of suppliers among a large number of local area restaurants).

Larry McCabe summarizes the restaurant menu thus: “ We try to mix it between standard dishes  (there is a chicken and a beef on the menu), and things that highlight flavour profiles that are not generally seen”. An example of this would be Braised rabbit with lentils, baby carrots and caramelized onion broth. Rabbit seems to be appearing more frequently on menus in our region. (The appetizer menu offers Rabbit terrine with local greens and plum chutney ). Pazzo sources their rabbits from a farm in Arthur. Another item on the recently introduced Fall menu is slow-cooked veal cheeks with sautéed mushrooms, parsnips and Israeli couscous. This is proving to be extremely popular with patrons.

Larry McCabe is justifiably proud of the wine list, which is substantial and wide ranging, with offerings from around the globe. The emphasis, though, is on France, Italy, California, and of course, Ontario. (There are currently about 30 Ontario wines available at Pazzo). This season Pazzo has featured a number of 2007 Ontario whites, among them the Cave Spring Chardonnay Musqué (intense spice and orange flavours) and their Riesling Dolomite (available only direct-to-restaurant). McCabe is looking forward to receiving some very good Ontario 2007 reds, for next season, particularly some from Le Clos Jordanne, whose Pinot Noir has been getting excellent advance billing.

A number of wines are available by the glass. Changes to the list are frequent, depending on vintage changes, and new discoveries. A downloadable listing can be found on the website, should you wish to indulge in some pleasurable anticipation.

Service, that most fundamental of elements, is taken very seriously at Pazzo. Ignorance of details of the food and wine, on the part of wait staff, does not translate into bliss for the dining patrons. McCabe emphasizes that the floor staff are well-prepared for their work. “[We do] extensive wine training, we do seminars, 4 or 5 during the year.”  Staff also have the opportunity to visit Ontario wineries, to acquire a more immediate and in-depth education.  And the staff are also thoroughly trained on the food:  “They have the opportunity to see everything that is coming out [of the kitchen],  to critique it…to learn the ingredients of every dish”.

Pazzo’s patio will be open as long as the weather is accommodating, but the Ristorante will be closing at the end of October. Try to visit before the closing, to appreciate the experience offered by a cast and crew that are truly professionals in their fields. If you’re too late for the dining room, enjoy the same standards, with a different atmosphere, in the Pizzeria.  There’s nothing crazy about having a good time!

70 Ontario Street

Stratford, Ontario. N5A 3H2

Phone: 519-273-6666 or 1-877-440-9666

Fax: 519-273-6554

http://www.pazzo.ca

Whatever Lola Wants…

August 7th, 2009 § 1


Tania Auger’s Lola’s Lounge in Sarnia

Bryan Lavery & Cecilia Buy

Lolas_Sign_web

Drive down Christina Street in Sarnia, and you can’t miss it. A narrow building, with the front of its second floor covered by the outsize signage: Lola’s Lounge writ large in flowing neon script, voluptuously crimson. Red is Tania Auger’s signature colour, and the owner of Lola’s has put her unmistakable stamp on every facet of her restaurant, from furnishings to food, from the window treatment to the wine list.

The bones of the old building show through. Operating continuously since the ‘thirties, the shade of the former diner lingers. The swivel stools at the counter have been replaced with metal-framed barstools, but the curved bulkhead above the liquor shelves remains, now backlit with red neon that casts a speakeasy glow over the bottles, and her collection of vintage Canadian and Italian art glass.

Down one side of the room are the original booths, seats now reupholstered, and each booth with its own coat and hat rack.  On the other side of the terrazzo floor (laid in diagonal stripes of light and dark) the booths have been replaced with tables and chairs. While the room seats seventy it feels smaller, more intimate, that sense enhanced by the large coloured glass lamps suspended over each table, and a jungle of shiny sequined decorations that dangle from the ceiling, with swinging lamps over the bar. Tables are set with bread plates, cutlery and glassware, and a rainbow of cloth napkins. The upbeat music is played to be noticed and enjoyed as part of a high energy dining experience. Even with the bright sunshine pouring through the large plate glass window, the ambience is less of lunchtime than ‘afternoon at the seraglio’/ ‘fifties cocktail lounge.

Tania Auger was born a bon vivant and knew from an early age that she and the hospitality business were made for each other. She arrived in London in her late teens, charisma already flowing, to fill a vacancy at the Lamplighter Inn, working as a bartender. This was followed by stints at Howard Johnson’s and much longer stretches at John and Ingrid Blanke’s Gabrielle’s Next Door. Not long after, she became the barkeeper/doyenne at Singapore. Located downstairs from the ultra chic Asian-inspired Sorrenti’s restaurant, Singapore was an instant hit under Auger’s direction.  The intimate bar was an oasis of smoky cosmopolitan seduction and sophistication with an adjoining secluded back room complete with two Moorish -inspired tented booths. The bar boasted a menu of classic cocktails: stingers, manhattans, rusty nails, Rob Roy’s, and martinis, as well as original concoctions that cemented Auger’s reputation as bartender extraordinaire. At the time Auger was also making her name designing and handcrafting her own collection of avant-garde jewellery.

In 1988, Auger’s entrepreneurial streak continued to surface and she leased the Ritz Hotel in Bayfield, and opened the Shark Inn. After a very successful season the building was purchased by Joan Ivey who bought out the lease and paved the way for Auger to return to London and transform a longtime lunch counter into the legendary 99 King. Auger’s high energy approach, design sensibility and idiosyncratic style went a long way into helping to turn a derelict part of King Street into the restaurant mecca it has become. The restaurant and lounge eventually expanded into three buildings in the premises now occupied by the Cello Supper Club.

In the second year of operation she upped the ante and hired uber-chef Jacqueline “Jackie” Shantz for the long run period.

All good things come to an end, and after a lengthy and successful run, in 1997, much to the dismay of a large and diverse clientele, the doors of 99 King were closed. Tania returned to her hometown, and after a brief hiatus opened a new enterprise, the tony Smoked Oyster and a second restaurant / nightclub, Red Tango. Following the events of September 11, 2001, Sarnia, like other Canadian border cities, felt the effects on trade. The locals, sophisticated American customers, Point Edward Charity Casino’s high rollers and the tourists along Sarnia’s stunning riverfront district stayed away in droves. Undeterred, and never one to look backwards, she ‘bit the hair of the dog’ and opened Lola’s Lounge in the summer of 2002.

“When I first opened I was trying to do funky comfort food ‘cause I still had the Red Tango. I was trying to keep the Tango as the dressy place and this as the more comfort… I finally said, ‘Okay, forget it!’ Painted the place red (gotta have red), raised the bar, and put the mirrors in,” recalls Auger. “People were mad at me for closing the Smoked Oyster. It was not easy, people wouldn’t even come.  It took at least a year to get things going again.”

Seven years later Lola’s has seen some changes and permutations in style, staff, and cuisine, but seems settled in for the long run. Giselle Dennis, Lola’s manager has been by Auger’s side every step of the way, doing the books at 99 King, 4 years at The Smoked Oyster and the last 7 at Lola’s.

Despite a current trend to simplicity and seasonality, Auger, who appreciates the “local” philosophy does not follow trends, she sets them. Her menus have a distinct personality consistent with Tania Auger brand, the imprimatur, retro-chic with a continental riff on the traditional. Hers is an anthology of rehabilitated classics like escargot forestiere, crispy frogs legs, oysters Rockefeller, clam chowder and iceberg lettuce (but this incarnation served with beef tenderloin, blue cheese, boiled egg and avocado.) It is food that is brash, sensual and sexy, food that borders on the hedonistic with big flavours. Menus denote exotic locales, diverse flavours and ingredients. The irony of items such as Mama Mia Meatballs with major mozza & baguette and Fashion Forward Cold Seafood Extravaganza reference what is both camp and kitsch.

Lola’s rack of lamb is a culinary legend  with its spicy maple bourbon sauce, whose ingredients came to Auger fully formed in a dream and Chef Shantz perfected during the 99 King years.

Auger has always paid homage to the American bar and grille sensibility and its culinary traditions, especially martinis, big 10 and 12oz. steaks and the freshest fish and seafood.  Lola’s fresh fish is sourced locally from Purdy’s Fish Market, which is one of Southwestern Ontario’s hidden gems, operating since 1900 in Point Edward. There is also a location in Grand Bend and Purdy’s sells its offerings at the Sarnia Farmer’s Market at the corner of Ontario and Proctor Streets. Saturdays 7 a.m. to noon.

Turns out, you can go home again.  Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets. And little man, little Lola wants you. Make up your mind to have no regrets. Recline yourself, resign yourself, you’re through….
Lola’s Lounge

110 Christina St. S. Sarnia, ON

519 336-8088

From Columbia, with Love

February 2nd, 2009 § 0


Exotic fare at your local market

Granadilla. Tamarillo. Curuba. They sound so exotic. And of course they are, to us. But these fruits are commonly consumed in many countries. Humberto Jaramillo and Nohra Tatis are helping to spread the word, here in London.

The couple came to Canada from Columbia a few years ago, with their three young sons. Unable to obtain work in their professions, they decided to put to use their experience with family businesses in earlier years, and their connections in their home country. And now we can enjoy the fruits of their labours.

Entering London’s Farmers Market at the Western Fairgrounds, you’ll forget the snow and ice outside, when you see before you the selection of strange and colourful produce displayed at Humberto and Nohra’s stand. Samples are proffered. Go on, I dare you!

You’ll succumb to the intriguing possibilities. But then you’ll wonder… what the heck do you do with them? In this Internet age the answers are at your fingertips. Plenty of recipes can be found online.

You might be familiar with the purple Passion Fruit, or at least its juice. But try a cousin, the Granadilla. Crack open the golden shell, and scoop out the sweet seeds; a little like a pomegranate to look at, without the finicky aspect.

Sample some physalis, known as uchuva in Spanish, and also called ‘ground cherry’, ‘goldenberry’, and ‘cape gooseberry’ (for the papery ‘cape’ that encloses the fruit, according to one source). Physalis contains antioxidants, and in its native habitat has both medicinal and culinary value. Use it in a salad, chutney or salsa. Make jam, bake it in a pie, or simply enjoy it au naturel. I even discovered a recipe for coffee crepes with physalis filling.

The outer skin of the tamarillo, or tree-tomato, is tart, even bitter. But the seeds and flesh are tangy, sometimes slightly sweet. Rich in vitamins (especially Vitamin E) and iron, the tamarillo can be eaten as it comes, in a salad, or sliced in a sandwich or with cold meats. Generally, however, it is cooked. Try tamarillo in a sauce or curry. Wikipedia’s suggestions include adding it to boeuf bourguignon. And, as for most of these fruits, there are appetizing dessert recipes to be found.

Related to the tamarillo is the bright orange lulo, or naranjilla (‘little orange’). Juicy, slightly acid, with a pineapple-lemon taste, the pulp can be eaten raw, or used in jams, jellies, sherbet, or baked desserts. Most commonly, lulos are used to make juice.

Humberto and Nohra import all these fruits, and more, from their native Columbia. Stop by their stand at the Market and sample the wares. Be sure to try some of the delicious juices that are also on offer. Then take some granadillas home to your kitchen (or curubas, or physalis) and get adventurous. Bon appetit, or rather, buen provecho!

* *

You can find all these fruits, and more, at London’s Farmers Market, and at Remark Fresh Market.

Enquiries? mailto:contactus@jtintertrade.com

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